Monday, April 21, 2014

20 Apr -- Easter Sunday in Burgos

I woke up to a cold and rainy morning.  Got dressed and went out for breakfast and coffee. It was pretty quiet as I walked past closed cafe after closed cafe. The few people out and about were either street sweepers or delivery men.  I made it to the square where umbrella toting tourists were gathering at the only open cafe on the square. I ordered my usual, cafe con leche and a slice of tortilla. Then headed back to the hotel. I had gotten really wet and cold, so I decided that today would be a good day to just sit inside.  I know it is Easter Sunday, but I think I've had enough pageantry to last me a while.

At noon, I heard the bells from the Burgos Cathedral begin to ring. They rang for about 2-3 minutes and when they stopped, the bells in the cathedral across the street from my hotel began to ring. They also rang for 2-3 mins. Then, another set of bells began to ring in a church father away. I stepped outside onto the balcony to listen. When they stopped, another church took up the ringing. I realized that all the churches in the city were taking turns ringing their bells. I listened as the sounds of bells drifted toward me from further and further away.  I thought this was pretty cool!

It wasn't enough to make me want to leave my warm bed in my warm and dry hotel. So I decided to recap the places I've stayed in case anyone reading this is planning their own Camino Pilgrimage.

Where I've stayed:
Madrid: Hotel Tachs - this is a reasonably priced hotel close to the airport. Best thing is the free airport shuttle, saves you time and money. It's a great place to recuperate from jet lag because it is quiet and dark. Onsite restaurant is pricey but good, more places to eat are a good 1km walk across the avenue. I wouldn't walk after dark, though. Great Wifi.
Bizkarette: Albergue Corazon Puro - I can't say enough good things about this Pension! Istvan and Barbara are gems.  Istvan will pick you up at the train station in Pamplona and then drive you to SJPDP or Roncesvalles where you will begin your Camino.  The food was fabulous, the bed comfortable, and the company awesome!! Good Wifi.
Larrasoana: Albergue Municipal - Straight forward, cheap, municipal albergue. Mattresses and pillows are covered in vinyl, make sure you have a sleeping bag or cocoon and pillow case. Showers were good, dormitory clean. No heat, no blankets.  It was pretty cold. No Wifi.
Pamplona: Hotel Puerta del Camino - nice, clean, VERY friendly, helpful, English speaking staff. Right in the middle of town, near everything. Great Wifi.
Puente la Reina: Albergue Jakue - Very nice outdoor bar and indoor buffet restaurant. Beautiful sitting areas, large kitchen with microwave, friendly staff.  Dorm was a little claustrophobic, but comfortable. Good Wifi.
Villatuerta: Albergue Casa Magica -Very nice place, NO BUNKS!! They had just opened for the season and were still renovating the courtyard while I was there, but it was clean and comfortable and the evening meal was fabulous! Breakfast was the best I've had in Spain! Good Wifi.
Navarrete: Albergue Cantaro - Nice, clean. Near everything. Kitchen crowded. No common seating area. Not very friendly. Good Wifi.
Belorado: Albergue Cuatro Cantones - LOVED this place!! Clean, comfortable, beautiful courtyard with swimming pool. The restaurant was fabulous (don't bother getting breakfast, though - you can getter better fare at the cafe). Three course dinner fort 10 euro was totally worth it. Large kitchen, vending machine. VERY friendly staff.  Great Wifi.
Burgos: Hotel Norte y Londres - Lovely hotel, but squeaky wooden floors! Within walking distance of EVERYTHING - Burgos Cathedral, the plaza, shops, restaurants, riverwalk... Great Wifi.



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