It was still cold and rainy today, so we decided to tour Porto by Redbus Hop-on Hop-off Tours. We walked to the riverfront and took the overhead gondola from the top of the hill to the river-walk. It was a spectacular view, even in the rain.
The tour bus took us all around Porto and we were able to listen to the pre-recorded guide in English. It was really funny because the woman reading the script had a Spanish accent but she was reading the script with an exaggerated British accent. It cracked me up!
The coast and beaches of Porto were a surprise. I never really thought of Porto as a beach town before, but the coastline there is quite nice. At least I imagine that it would be nice - if it were SUNNY and WARM! Even though it was raining, there were dozens of kite-board riders putting on a show all up and down the beach. The Redbus Tour took most of the afternoon, so we ate at a cafe on the riverwalk afterward.
Back at the riverfront, we walked to a Winery for a Port Wine tasting. We were in Porto after all! I never even knew that Port wine came in different flavors and colors. My only experience with Port wine before was with the dark red sweet version. We tasted the traditional dark red, then a blush, then a lighter red, then a white port. The white was my favorite! It has a light, crisp, and fruity taste that I enjoyed immensely. A little too immensely. I so wanted to buy a bottle or two or six, but we were about to start our Camino and we had no way to transport it. Although, we probably would have been the most popular pilgrims on the Way if we shared the port as we went along.
Then we went to the Cathedral again to get our credentials stamped with the official cello (stamp) so Frank could qualify to stay in the Portuguese albergues. We studied the maps and literature about the Portuguese Way and plotted our course. Since we only have to walk 100 km to qualify to receive the official Compostela, we decided to take a bus from Porto to Valenca, Portugal and begin our pilgrimage there. We then headed to the bus station to figure out the schedules and purchase our tickets. I'm getting pretty good at buying long distance train and bus tickets. I'll probably never get on another metro bus again, though.
I'm excited that I'll be back on the Camino again tomorrow. With Frank's help, I think I'll make it after all. It was a good day, I'm so excited!!
Wednesday, May 7, 2014
24 Apr -- Porto, Portugal
First full day with Frank here in Porto!!! We went walking to find the Camino, but it was cold and raining. not very much fun. When we crossed the river, it started to POUR on us! Good thing we were both wearing our waterproof rain jackets and boots. Our pants got soaked, but we both have the quick- dry hiking pants, it really didn't take very long for them to dry! After a little sight-seeing, we stopped for lunch downtown. We found the Camino Trail at the Cathedral and walked it for a bit but my knee was hurting so we gave up and went back to the hotel early.
We watched movies in Spanish and Frank was giving his own interpretation, it was hilarious. Reminded me of the Mystery Science Theater program from years ago.
I got online to book a hotel for the weekend we are scheduled to return to Lisbon from the Canary Islands, but I couldn't get anything for under 500 euros a night!! Yikes!! I don't know what's going on in Lisbon that weekend, but we are in trouble! I finally found a hotel on the outskirts of town for way more than we've been paying per night, then we'll take a bus to Fatima, where I was able to get a good deal.
Ah, the joys of last minute, fly-by-the-seat of your pants travel!! It's not for the faint-hearted!
We watched movies in Spanish and Frank was giving his own interpretation, it was hilarious. Reminded me of the Mystery Science Theater program from years ago.
I got online to book a hotel for the weekend we are scheduled to return to Lisbon from the Canary Islands, but I couldn't get anything for under 500 euros a night!! Yikes!! I don't know what's going on in Lisbon that weekend, but we are in trouble! I finally found a hotel on the outskirts of town for way more than we've been paying per night, then we'll take a bus to Fatima, where I was able to get a good deal.
Ah, the joys of last minute, fly-by-the-seat of your pants travel!! It's not for the faint-hearted!
Tuesday, May 6, 2014
23 Apr -- Porto
This morning, I decided to walk into town again to find the train station so I could meet Frank there. He wasn't scheduled to arrive until 4:00pm so I had plenty of time. I walked back to the river and this time boarded a metro bus heading downtown. When I got there, I found the train station and started sightseeing. The city of Porto is much bigger than I imagined.
I finally sat down at a cafe for lunch and ordered a French omelet with fritas and a cervesa. The waiter quickly brought my beer and I sat and watched people jumping on and off the metro buses right in front of the cafe. When my meal arrived, I had just taken a few bites of the delicious omelet when my phone buzzed with a message from Frank: "I'm at the hotel, where are you?" I checked my phone for the time, it was only 12:30!! I thought, "What's going on??" I sent a reply: "I thought you weren't arriving until 4:00!!" I waited, but didn't get a reply. I had visions of an exhausted, jet-lagged Frank waiting for me in the hotel lobby. I panicked. I called the waiter to me and looked up the Portuguese term for "take-away." I figured I'd pack up my lunch and catch a bus back to the hotel. The waiter looked at me and blinked when I said "Tirar." He shrugged, picked up my practically full plate of food and disappeared. I sat there a while, then I thought, "What if he thought I was finished!! Oh no, I really wanted that food! Hey, I'm still hungry!" I was about to just pay and leave, when he showed up with my food clumsily wrapped in paper and in a plastic bag. I guess they don't get many requests for "to go" food. Relieved, I quickly paid my check and ran to the bus stop.
I looked up the name of the stop near the hotel (Ave de Jesus) and saw that the "gold" line would take me back across the bridge and to the correct stop. The first bus came and I asked the driver "Ave de Jesus?" He shook his head and thrust his thumb out toward the bus behind him. I jumped off and waited for the next bus to pull up and repeated my query. The driver nodded and said "Um oitenta." I handed him two euros and got change back. Relieved, I sat down in the nearest seat. I was excited and happy to think that Frank was HERE!! I'd soon be with him at the hotel! The bus took off and I smiled as I thought about spending the next few days with Frank in this beautiful city.
The bus started toward the bridge and then veered off to the left away from the river. I thought, "That's strange, maybe it makes a circle around the plaza before it crosses the bridge." I wasn't worried, after all, the driver had nodded and taken my money. Surely I was on the right bus. I was busy perusing the tourism maps and sight seeing literature I had picked up at the Cathedral when I realized that this trip back across the river was taking a lot longer than the original trip to downtown. I looked up and was shocked to see that I was now in an industrial area. I didn't recognize any of this scenery from the first trip!
The driver kept driving and when I asked again, "Ave de Jesus?" he just nodded his head. I was beginning to worry, but still confident that I would eventually get where I needed to go. There were fewer and fewer people on the bus, and finally - I was the only one left. The driver stopped and pointed to the door. This time, I panicked. I looked at him and pointed to the route map I had in my hand. He looked at the map and sighed. He said something in Portuguese but I didn't understand. I had no idea where I was, but I knew it wasn't where I was supposed to be. He sighed again, pointed to the bus stop and motioned for me to get off the bus. Then he pointed to the stop across the street and said "Wait" in English. So I got off the bus, walked across the street to the stop, and apprehensively waited for - I really didn't know what I was waiting for. The driver drove off as I sat there alone and upset.
About 5 minutes later, I saw a familiar looking bus approach the stop. It was the same bus with the same driver. Puzzled, I stood as he stopped in front of me and motioned for me to get in. I got my coin purse out to pay but he waved me off, pointed to the seat next to him and said "Sit." Obediently, I sat. He drove back towards down town, but about half way there, the stopped the bus, opened the door and pointed to a side street. He was saying something in Portuguese, but the only thing I understood was that he wanted me to get off at this stop and walk somewhere. I didn't argue, I got off the bus. I thought to myself, "That driver is nuts! I'll just wait for another bus and at least get back downtown where I can get a taxi." Then I was thinking, "Well, I'll figure out where I am on Google maps, then I'll walk to a hotel and get a taxi." There were no hotels in sight.
About that time, another bus pulled up and when the driver opened the door I jumped in and asked him "Ave de Jesus?" He said, "Oh no, you're a long way from there. This bus doesn't go that route." He was speaking ENGLISH!!! Horrified that I was so far removed from where I needed to be and thinking that Frank was probably worried about me since it was now nearly 2:00pm, I asked, "How do I get there?" He answered, "Walk down this street to the left and take the metro train. That will take you across the river and it will stop at the station across the street from Ave de Jesus." OH!!! THAT was what the other driver was trying to tell me. I thanked profusely him and jumped off the bus practically running to the train station.
I could see a train already approaching the station, so I hurriedly ran to the ticket machine. The home page was in Portuguese, but there was an English option. Relieved, I pushed the button for English. The machine froze. The train arrived. I kept pushing buttons, getting more frantic by the minute. Nothing happened. The train pulled out. FINALLY, the machine responded. I bought a ticket. I looked at the receipt, it said "Tren #6, Ave de Jesus. 4:30pm" WHAT???? That's another two hours away!! Surely I can find a taxi before then!! Frank will be worried sick. He hasn't answered my messages, he probably doesn't have wifi because he can't get into the room. Poor Frank, I'm sure he's exhausted and uncomfortable. Augghhhhh!!!
I looked at Google maps. I was in the middle of nowhere in this lousy city. I started walking as fast as I could in the general direction of downtown. I looked for hotels, I couldn't find one. I saw that there was a hospital about 3 km from me. I started walking towards it. I thought, "Surely there'll be a taxi stand near a hospital! If nothing else, I'll be close to an emergency room when I collapse." I finally got to the hospital and I was relieved to find a taxi stand. I approached the first taxi in line and I'm sure the driver was appalled when he saw this wild-eyed, sweaty, bedraggled woman, clutching a greasy, soggy bag of stinky egg and cheese omelet, approaching his pristinely upholstered taxi. I held out my iPhone with the address of the hotel on the screen. He shook his head, he said he didn't know where it was. He took my phone from me and walked to a less shiny, older taxi behind him and showed the address to the driver. They talked for a few minutes and the other driver motioned me over to his cab and we took off. At this point, I didn't care how much this was going to cost. I just needed to get to the hotel as fast as I could because I was sure Frank was frantic with worry.
When I finally got there, he wasn't in the lobby. He had gotten a key to the room, he had showered and changed, and he was comfortably snoring away in the king-sized bed. Blissfully unaware of my ordeal. I kissed him and let him sleep. I collapsed in the chair and fell asleep myself. When I woke up, Frank was eating my lunch.
I'm sure I'll have a good laugh over this someday. Or maybe not.
I finally sat down at a cafe for lunch and ordered a French omelet with fritas and a cervesa. The waiter quickly brought my beer and I sat and watched people jumping on and off the metro buses right in front of the cafe. When my meal arrived, I had just taken a few bites of the delicious omelet when my phone buzzed with a message from Frank: "I'm at the hotel, where are you?" I checked my phone for the time, it was only 12:30!! I thought, "What's going on??" I sent a reply: "I thought you weren't arriving until 4:00!!" I waited, but didn't get a reply. I had visions of an exhausted, jet-lagged Frank waiting for me in the hotel lobby. I panicked. I called the waiter to me and looked up the Portuguese term for "take-away." I figured I'd pack up my lunch and catch a bus back to the hotel. The waiter looked at me and blinked when I said "Tirar." He shrugged, picked up my practically full plate of food and disappeared. I sat there a while, then I thought, "What if he thought I was finished!! Oh no, I really wanted that food! Hey, I'm still hungry!" I was about to just pay and leave, when he showed up with my food clumsily wrapped in paper and in a plastic bag. I guess they don't get many requests for "to go" food. Relieved, I quickly paid my check and ran to the bus stop.
I looked up the name of the stop near the hotel (Ave de Jesus) and saw that the "gold" line would take me back across the bridge and to the correct stop. The first bus came and I asked the driver "Ave de Jesus?" He shook his head and thrust his thumb out toward the bus behind him. I jumped off and waited for the next bus to pull up and repeated my query. The driver nodded and said "Um oitenta." I handed him two euros and got change back. Relieved, I sat down in the nearest seat. I was excited and happy to think that Frank was HERE!! I'd soon be with him at the hotel! The bus took off and I smiled as I thought about spending the next few days with Frank in this beautiful city.
The bus started toward the bridge and then veered off to the left away from the river. I thought, "That's strange, maybe it makes a circle around the plaza before it crosses the bridge." I wasn't worried, after all, the driver had nodded and taken my money. Surely I was on the right bus. I was busy perusing the tourism maps and sight seeing literature I had picked up at the Cathedral when I realized that this trip back across the river was taking a lot longer than the original trip to downtown. I looked up and was shocked to see that I was now in an industrial area. I didn't recognize any of this scenery from the first trip!
The driver kept driving and when I asked again, "Ave de Jesus?" he just nodded his head. I was beginning to worry, but still confident that I would eventually get where I needed to go. There were fewer and fewer people on the bus, and finally - I was the only one left. The driver stopped and pointed to the door. This time, I panicked. I looked at him and pointed to the route map I had in my hand. He looked at the map and sighed. He said something in Portuguese but I didn't understand. I had no idea where I was, but I knew it wasn't where I was supposed to be. He sighed again, pointed to the bus stop and motioned for me to get off the bus. Then he pointed to the stop across the street and said "Wait" in English. So I got off the bus, walked across the street to the stop, and apprehensively waited for - I really didn't know what I was waiting for. The driver drove off as I sat there alone and upset.
About 5 minutes later, I saw a familiar looking bus approach the stop. It was the same bus with the same driver. Puzzled, I stood as he stopped in front of me and motioned for me to get in. I got my coin purse out to pay but he waved me off, pointed to the seat next to him and said "Sit." Obediently, I sat. He drove back towards down town, but about half way there, the stopped the bus, opened the door and pointed to a side street. He was saying something in Portuguese, but the only thing I understood was that he wanted me to get off at this stop and walk somewhere. I didn't argue, I got off the bus. I thought to myself, "That driver is nuts! I'll just wait for another bus and at least get back downtown where I can get a taxi." Then I was thinking, "Well, I'll figure out where I am on Google maps, then I'll walk to a hotel and get a taxi." There were no hotels in sight.
About that time, another bus pulled up and when the driver opened the door I jumped in and asked him "Ave de Jesus?" He said, "Oh no, you're a long way from there. This bus doesn't go that route." He was speaking ENGLISH!!! Horrified that I was so far removed from where I needed to be and thinking that Frank was probably worried about me since it was now nearly 2:00pm, I asked, "How do I get there?" He answered, "Walk down this street to the left and take the metro train. That will take you across the river and it will stop at the station across the street from Ave de Jesus." OH!!! THAT was what the other driver was trying to tell me. I thanked profusely him and jumped off the bus practically running to the train station.
I could see a train already approaching the station, so I hurriedly ran to the ticket machine. The home page was in Portuguese, but there was an English option. Relieved, I pushed the button for English. The machine froze. The train arrived. I kept pushing buttons, getting more frantic by the minute. Nothing happened. The train pulled out. FINALLY, the machine responded. I bought a ticket. I looked at the receipt, it said "Tren #6, Ave de Jesus. 4:30pm" WHAT???? That's another two hours away!! Surely I can find a taxi before then!! Frank will be worried sick. He hasn't answered my messages, he probably doesn't have wifi because he can't get into the room. Poor Frank, I'm sure he's exhausted and uncomfortable. Augghhhhh!!!
I looked at Google maps. I was in the middle of nowhere in this lousy city. I started walking as fast as I could in the general direction of downtown. I looked for hotels, I couldn't find one. I saw that there was a hospital about 3 km from me. I started walking towards it. I thought, "Surely there'll be a taxi stand near a hospital! If nothing else, I'll be close to an emergency room when I collapse." I finally got to the hospital and I was relieved to find a taxi stand. I approached the first taxi in line and I'm sure the driver was appalled when he saw this wild-eyed, sweaty, bedraggled woman, clutching a greasy, soggy bag of stinky egg and cheese omelet, approaching his pristinely upholstered taxi. I held out my iPhone with the address of the hotel on the screen. He shook his head, he said he didn't know where it was. He took my phone from me and walked to a less shiny, older taxi behind him and showed the address to the driver. They talked for a few minutes and the other driver motioned me over to his cab and we took off. At this point, I didn't care how much this was going to cost. I just needed to get to the hotel as fast as I could because I was sure Frank was frantic with worry.
When I finally got there, he wasn't in the lobby. He had gotten a key to the room, he had showered and changed, and he was comfortably snoring away in the king-sized bed. Blissfully unaware of my ordeal. I kissed him and let him sleep. I collapsed in the chair and fell asleep myself. When I woke up, Frank was eating my lunch.
I'm sure I'll have a good laugh over this someday. Or maybe not.
22 Apr -- Afternoon in Porto
I arrived at the airport and took a taxi to the hotel. I used Holiday Inn reward points to book four nights at the hotel, the last of Frank's super-duper Gold Premier-level points from all his business travel. When I got there, they upgraded me to a suite on the 20th floor with a river view. It was a little overwhelming after staying in hostels, shared rooms, dormitories, and small European hotels for a month! Unfortunately, the only clothes I had were the "quick-dry" camp shirts, merino wool t-shirt, hiking boots, and zipper hiking pants/shorts combo. I felt under dressed as I was surrounded by all the men and women in business attire. I had purchased a scarf when I was in Burgos, so I tucked the scarf around my neck and with my black jacket over the camp shirt it didn't look too bad! I took off in search of a cafe because the hotel restaurant was crowded with well-dressed patrons. My GPS took me down to the river where there were many tourist cafes, bars, restaurants, and corner grocery shops. Casually-dressed tourists in tennis shoes, jeans, and sweat-shirts were everywhere and I felt more comfortable. The river was beautiful! The buildings of the city spill down the hillside and crowd around both riverbanks and the activity flows into the river where port wine barges, river taxis, tourist sight-seeing boats, and sailboats navigate in both directions; sometimes coming precariously close to one another.
It was sunny, but still cold. I wanted to find the Camino Pilgrim's office and official tourist information center so I looked it up on Google maps, put the route into my GPS, and took off across the river to the old town. The GPS showed a walking route through a tunnel to the cathedral. Well, when I got across the bridge, the tunnel was blocked to pedestrian traffic due to construction. So I had to take the alternate route - up the hillside! I looked at the staircases ahead and almost gave up. But I could only see a short section of stairs and I decided that if I just took it slowly I'd be ok. Each time I reached a summit, I turned a corner and there was ANOTHER flight of stairs. THIRTY TWO flights all together. When, huffing and puffing all the way, I finally reached the top; I heard a crowd of people coming toward me. I wondered if they had taken a different route up because some had canes and they didn't look winded at all. When I turned the corner, I found the hillside tram from which the group had just disembarked. Cursing under my breath, I nearly thew my GPS phone into the gutter. Instead, I took note of the route for my eventual descent. I found the Cathedral, the Camino route, and the tourist information center. Armed with maps and a list of Portuguese albergues, I headed back to the hotel to plot our Camino trek. I stopped at a corner store and picked up a coke, some ham, cheese, and a baguette for dinner. Called it a night, watched the sunset over the city from my 20th floor balcony. A good day indeed.
It was sunny, but still cold. I wanted to find the Camino Pilgrim's office and official tourist information center so I looked it up on Google maps, put the route into my GPS, and took off across the river to the old town. The GPS showed a walking route through a tunnel to the cathedral. Well, when I got across the bridge, the tunnel was blocked to pedestrian traffic due to construction. So I had to take the alternate route - up the hillside! I looked at the staircases ahead and almost gave up. But I could only see a short section of stairs and I decided that if I just took it slowly I'd be ok. Each time I reached a summit, I turned a corner and there was ANOTHER flight of stairs. THIRTY TWO flights all together. When, huffing and puffing all the way, I finally reached the top; I heard a crowd of people coming toward me. I wondered if they had taken a different route up because some had canes and they didn't look winded at all. When I turned the corner, I found the hillside tram from which the group had just disembarked. Cursing under my breath, I nearly thew my GPS phone into the gutter. Instead, I took note of the route for my eventual descent. I found the Cathedral, the Camino route, and the tourist information center. Armed with maps and a list of Portuguese albergues, I headed back to the hotel to plot our Camino trek. I stopped at a corner store and picked up a coke, some ham, cheese, and a baguette for dinner. Called it a night, watched the sunset over the city from my 20th floor balcony. A good day indeed.
22 Apr -- Madrid - Porto, Portugal
I spent one night in Madrid and left early this morning on a plane (Ryan Air) bound for Porto, Portugal. When I was in Pamplona, I Skyped with Frank and tearfully told him about my injury and how I didn't think I could go on. He offered sympathy and encouragement, but what I didn't know was that he decided to change his plans and fly to Lisbon earlier so he could meet me and help me walk the Camino.
After leaving Pamplona and walking several more painful sections, I called him again from Burgos and admitted that I was probably through. That's when he told me he was planning to come earlier to help. Frankie to the rescue!!! He thought he could probably catch a train in Lisbon and meet me in Leon, Spain where we could begin together.
I did some quick research and found that the Camino Portuguese was a coastal route and it was supposedly flatter than the Camino Frances. This sounded like the perfect solution! We decided to meet in Porto and walk the Portuguese route together.
My knee is still swollen and painful, but a few days of rest in Porto and the heavy-duty knee brace Frank is bringing from home should do the trick.
Relief swelled up in me and threatened to spill out in tears again, but instead I went out and celebrated. Frank is on his way!!
After leaving Pamplona and walking several more painful sections, I called him again from Burgos and admitted that I was probably through. That's when he told me he was planning to come earlier to help. Frankie to the rescue!!! He thought he could probably catch a train in Lisbon and meet me in Leon, Spain where we could begin together.
I did some quick research and found that the Camino Portuguese was a coastal route and it was supposedly flatter than the Camino Frances. This sounded like the perfect solution! We decided to meet in Porto and walk the Portuguese route together.
My knee is still swollen and painful, but a few days of rest in Porto and the heavy-duty knee brace Frank is bringing from home should do the trick.
Relief swelled up in me and threatened to spill out in tears again, but instead I went out and celebrated. Frank is on his way!!
Monday, May 5, 2014
21 Apr -- Burgos - Madrid
There had been a break in the rain yesterday afternoon, so I walked to the bus station to check the schedule and buy a ticket for Madrid. The bus leaving at 9:40 am would get me to Madrid after lunch, so I bought the ticket and headed back to the hotel to stay warm.
I ventured out one last time for supper at the cafeteria on the plaza before packing everything in my backpack for the trip to Madrid. I had a fitful night of sleep partly because of all the squeaking wooden floors in the hotel and partly because I was feeling unsettled.
I got up early and took off walking in the cold rain for the bus station. Had coffee and tortilla at the cafe in the station while waiting for my departure time.
The bus was very comfortable and they even had a movie on the TV monitors in the bus. It was strange to watch Spiderman in Spanish. The Spanish voices they chose for the actors just didn't match up. But -- there was free wifi on board, so I was set!
The bus route took me to the Madrid airport where I called the hotel for a shuttle. The hotel desk attendant asked me which terminal I was in but I didn't have a clue!! I rushed from sign to sign trying to figure it out, when the guy on the line asked me "What color is the ceiling?" Baffled, I looked up and and said "Yellow." He answered, "You're in terminal number four." Well, that was good to know - and I was so grateful that he knew enough to figure it out! Apparently, the terminals are color coded.
I got to the hotel before 2:00 pm and they let me check in even though I was early. I was starving, but remembering how expensive the hotel restaurant was, I asked if there were any restaurants nearby. The woman at the reception desk said, "Yes, we have a NEW Burger King just across the avenue!" She seemed pretty excited about this. Since I really didn't want to eat at a Burger King, I asked if there was anything else. She said there were other cafes around the avenue as well. I took off walking.
Of course, it was siesta time when I got to the avenue. All the local cafes and bars were closed. But the Burger King was open! I walked in and smelled the French fries and I was hooked. It was the first hamburger and fries I'd had in over a month. They even had Coke Zero on tap! With FREE REFILLS!! The French fries even came with catsup!! Oh it was so delightful.
I ate my food and had TWO refills of Coke before heading back to the hotel. I asked for a wake up call and a shuttle to the airport for my early morning departure, then I showered and went to bed. With the help of two ibuprofen and a sleeping pill, I was out early.
It wasn't a bad day, yet I couldn't shake a melancholy mood that had settled on me in the rain in Burgos. My knee was still swollen. I wasn't walking the Camino. Things weren't going as I had planned.
Well, end this chapter... Turn the page, start a new one. Here we go.
Monday, April 21, 2014
20 Apr -- Easter Sunday in Burgos
I woke up to a cold and rainy morning. Got dressed and went out for breakfast and coffee. It was pretty quiet as I walked past closed cafe after closed cafe. The few people out and about were either street sweepers or delivery men. I made it to the square where umbrella toting tourists were gathering at the only open cafe on the square. I ordered my usual, cafe con leche and a slice of tortilla. Then headed back to the hotel. I had gotten really wet and cold, so I decided that today would be a good day to just sit inside. I know it is Easter Sunday, but I think I've had enough pageantry to last me a while.
At noon, I heard the bells from the Burgos Cathedral begin to ring. They rang for about 2-3 minutes and when they stopped, the bells in the cathedral across the street from my hotel began to ring. They also rang for 2-3 mins. Then, another set of bells began to ring in a church father away. I stepped outside onto the balcony to listen. When they stopped, another church took up the ringing. I realized that all the churches in the city were taking turns ringing their bells. I listened as the sounds of bells drifted toward me from further and further away. I thought this was pretty cool!
It wasn't enough to make me want to leave my warm bed in my warm and dry hotel. So I decided to recap the places I've stayed in case anyone reading this is planning their own Camino Pilgrimage.
Where I've stayed:
Madrid: Hotel Tachs - this is a reasonably priced hotel close to the airport. Best thing is the free airport shuttle, saves you time and money. It's a great place to recuperate from jet lag because it is quiet and dark. Onsite restaurant is pricey but good, more places to eat are a good 1km walk across the avenue. I wouldn't walk after dark, though. Great Wifi.
Bizkarette: Albergue Corazon Puro - I can't say enough good things about this Pension! Istvan and Barbara are gems. Istvan will pick you up at the train station in Pamplona and then drive you to SJPDP or Roncesvalles where you will begin your Camino. The food was fabulous, the bed comfortable, and the company awesome!! Good Wifi.
Larrasoana: Albergue Municipal - Straight forward, cheap, municipal albergue. Mattresses and pillows are covered in vinyl, make sure you have a sleeping bag or cocoon and pillow case. Showers were good, dormitory clean. No heat, no blankets. It was pretty cold. No Wifi.
Pamplona: Hotel Puerta del Camino - nice, clean, VERY friendly, helpful, English speaking staff. Right in the middle of town, near everything. Great Wifi.
Puente la Reina: Albergue Jakue - Very nice outdoor bar and indoor buffet restaurant. Beautiful sitting areas, large kitchen with microwave, friendly staff. Dorm was a little claustrophobic, but comfortable. Good Wifi.
Villatuerta: Albergue Casa Magica -Very nice place, NO BUNKS!! They had just opened for the season and were still renovating the courtyard while I was there, but it was clean and comfortable and the evening meal was fabulous! Breakfast was the best I've had in Spain! Good Wifi.
Navarrete: Albergue Cantaro - Nice, clean. Near everything. Kitchen crowded. No common seating area. Not very friendly. Good Wifi.
Belorado: Albergue Cuatro Cantones - LOVED this place!! Clean, comfortable, beautiful courtyard with swimming pool. The restaurant was fabulous (don't bother getting breakfast, though - you can getter better fare at the cafe). Three course dinner fort 10 euro was totally worth it. Large kitchen, vending machine. VERY friendly staff. Great Wifi.
Burgos: Hotel Norte y Londres - Lovely hotel, but squeaky wooden floors! Within walking distance of EVERYTHING - Burgos Cathedral, the plaza, shops, restaurants, riverwalk... Great Wifi.
At noon, I heard the bells from the Burgos Cathedral begin to ring. They rang for about 2-3 minutes and when they stopped, the bells in the cathedral across the street from my hotel began to ring. They also rang for 2-3 mins. Then, another set of bells began to ring in a church father away. I stepped outside onto the balcony to listen. When they stopped, another church took up the ringing. I realized that all the churches in the city were taking turns ringing their bells. I listened as the sounds of bells drifted toward me from further and further away. I thought this was pretty cool!
It wasn't enough to make me want to leave my warm bed in my warm and dry hotel. So I decided to recap the places I've stayed in case anyone reading this is planning their own Camino Pilgrimage.
Where I've stayed:
Madrid: Hotel Tachs - this is a reasonably priced hotel close to the airport. Best thing is the free airport shuttle, saves you time and money. It's a great place to recuperate from jet lag because it is quiet and dark. Onsite restaurant is pricey but good, more places to eat are a good 1km walk across the avenue. I wouldn't walk after dark, though. Great Wifi.
Bizkarette: Albergue Corazon Puro - I can't say enough good things about this Pension! Istvan and Barbara are gems. Istvan will pick you up at the train station in Pamplona and then drive you to SJPDP or Roncesvalles where you will begin your Camino. The food was fabulous, the bed comfortable, and the company awesome!! Good Wifi.
Larrasoana: Albergue Municipal - Straight forward, cheap, municipal albergue. Mattresses and pillows are covered in vinyl, make sure you have a sleeping bag or cocoon and pillow case. Showers were good, dormitory clean. No heat, no blankets. It was pretty cold. No Wifi.
Pamplona: Hotel Puerta del Camino - nice, clean, VERY friendly, helpful, English speaking staff. Right in the middle of town, near everything. Great Wifi.
Puente la Reina: Albergue Jakue - Very nice outdoor bar and indoor buffet restaurant. Beautiful sitting areas, large kitchen with microwave, friendly staff. Dorm was a little claustrophobic, but comfortable. Good Wifi.
Villatuerta: Albergue Casa Magica -Very nice place, NO BUNKS!! They had just opened for the season and were still renovating the courtyard while I was there, but it was clean and comfortable and the evening meal was fabulous! Breakfast was the best I've had in Spain! Good Wifi.
Navarrete: Albergue Cantaro - Nice, clean. Near everything. Kitchen crowded. No common seating area. Not very friendly. Good Wifi.
Belorado: Albergue Cuatro Cantones - LOVED this place!! Clean, comfortable, beautiful courtyard with swimming pool. The restaurant was fabulous (don't bother getting breakfast, though - you can getter better fare at the cafe). Three course dinner fort 10 euro was totally worth it. Large kitchen, vending machine. VERY friendly staff. Great Wifi.
Burgos: Hotel Norte y Londres - Lovely hotel, but squeaky wooden floors! Within walking distance of EVERYTHING - Burgos Cathedral, the plaza, shops, restaurants, riverwalk... Great Wifi.
Sunday, April 20, 2014
19 Apr -- Belorado - Burgos
I thought I had the 6-bed dorm to myself since no one else had shown up by dinner time, but as I was undressing for bed, six young Spanish bicyclists walked into the room! Apparently, the albergue had booked the room for them and then double booked me into the same room. The albergue was COMPLETELY full, so they brought a mattress into the room and set one of the cyclists on the floor. As is the case with all of the albergue dormitories, the room was co-ed. Fortunately, my state of undress wasn't complete and I had the presence of mind not to scream when they entered the room. I just slipped my sleeping cocoon over body and waited for the lights to go out to actually maneuver myself into the cocoon. They were hot, tired, and dirty from the road; and not the least bit interested in me. So it was easy to just melt into the background as they went about getting ready for bed. Before they arrived, I had draped my bath towel from the slats on the bottom of the upper bunk bed, creating a privacy screen so that the light from the window would not bother me during the night. I was not anticipating company, but the drape worked perfectly to give me (and them) some privacy. They were young and full of themselves as they talked, joked, and jostled each other while undressing and heading into the showers. My privacy screen really did little to prevent me from seeing "everything." So I closed my eyes and pretended to be asleep, or at least I tried.
I never set my alarm because pilgrims tend to be early (5am) risers and they usually wake me up way before I need to get up. Imagine my surprise when I awoke in the morning at 7:15 am!!! Way later than I wanted to. The bus was supposed to leave at 9:00, so I jumped out of bed and realised that the Spaniards were still asleep in their bunks. I threw modesty to the wind as I dressed right there next to my bunk, grabbed my pack and started stuffing everything into it. I had time to brush my teeth and grab a cup of cafe con leche in the kitchen before running out the door to the bus station. It was a lot closer to the albergue than I thought, so I got there in plenty of time. Doug and Colin were already there so we greeted each other and sat to wait. It was about 8:30 when we heard someone calling to us from across the street. The bus driver was calling out and waving at us. We gathered our packs and ran across the street, loaded them into the bottom of the bus, paid our fares, boarded the bus. He then TOOK OFF!! I sure was glad I didn't wait until nine to get there!!
We arrived at the main bus hub in Burgos. Doug and Colin wished me a "Buen Camino" and took off for their hotel. I took off in the opposite direction for mine. My GPS took me straight to the hotel, but I was too early to check in. I left my pack in the luggage closet and took off to find food, as I missed breakfast. Burgos is a bright and beautiful city. Many cathedrals, many plazas and squares, tons of restaurants, bars, cafes, shops.... you name it!! I found a cute cafe and got a bocadillo and coke (seems to be my regular meal) and after lunch I went exploring. Spectacular!! Beautiful architecture and art everywhere. And the people are quite handsome as well. I felt under dressed every where I went.
Many streets were blocked off to traffic in preparation for the processions scheduled for the Easter celebrations. I toured the Burgos Cathedral, it took me several hours to see the whole thing. Quite spectacular. I went back to the hotel and checked in, got to my room and took a nap. I'm really beginning to like the idea of siestas!!
When I awoke, there was a huge crowd of people walking in one direction on the street below. I got dressed and followed the crowd to a convent where we waited for the processional. When the statue of the Virgin arrived at the convent, the choir of cloistered nuns sang a beautiful, but very mournful piece. I couldn't understand it, but I found it quite moving. As if on cue, it began to rain. The woman next to me pulled out her umbrella and then reached over and hugged me to her to protect me from the rain. That act of kindness and the mournful music had me in tears.
When it was over, I thanked her and she hugged me. I took off to find dinner because we had been standing over an hour waiting for the procession and then the ceremony took another hour. I found an outdoor cafe, ate dinner with wine, contemplated the day's events, and with a joyful and grateful heart walked in the cold rain back to my hotel room for a hot shower and warm bed.
I never set my alarm because pilgrims tend to be early (5am) risers and they usually wake me up way before I need to get up. Imagine my surprise when I awoke in the morning at 7:15 am!!! Way later than I wanted to. The bus was supposed to leave at 9:00, so I jumped out of bed and realised that the Spaniards were still asleep in their bunks. I threw modesty to the wind as I dressed right there next to my bunk, grabbed my pack and started stuffing everything into it. I had time to brush my teeth and grab a cup of cafe con leche in the kitchen before running out the door to the bus station. It was a lot closer to the albergue than I thought, so I got there in plenty of time. Doug and Colin were already there so we greeted each other and sat to wait. It was about 8:30 when we heard someone calling to us from across the street. The bus driver was calling out and waving at us. We gathered our packs and ran across the street, loaded them into the bottom of the bus, paid our fares, boarded the bus. He then TOOK OFF!! I sure was glad I didn't wait until nine to get there!!
We arrived at the main bus hub in Burgos. Doug and Colin wished me a "Buen Camino" and took off for their hotel. I took off in the opposite direction for mine. My GPS took me straight to the hotel, but I was too early to check in. I left my pack in the luggage closet and took off to find food, as I missed breakfast. Burgos is a bright and beautiful city. Many cathedrals, many plazas and squares, tons of restaurants, bars, cafes, shops.... you name it!! I found a cute cafe and got a bocadillo and coke (seems to be my regular meal) and after lunch I went exploring. Spectacular!! Beautiful architecture and art everywhere. And the people are quite handsome as well. I felt under dressed every where I went.
Many streets were blocked off to traffic in preparation for the processions scheduled for the Easter celebrations. I toured the Burgos Cathedral, it took me several hours to see the whole thing. Quite spectacular. I went back to the hotel and checked in, got to my room and took a nap. I'm really beginning to like the idea of siestas!!
When I awoke, there was a huge crowd of people walking in one direction on the street below. I got dressed and followed the crowd to a convent where we waited for the processional. When the statue of the Virgin arrived at the convent, the choir of cloistered nuns sang a beautiful, but very mournful piece. I couldn't understand it, but I found it quite moving. As if on cue, it began to rain. The woman next to me pulled out her umbrella and then reached over and hugged me to her to protect me from the rain. That act of kindness and the mournful music had me in tears.
When it was over, I thanked her and she hugged me. I took off to find dinner because we had been standing over an hour waiting for the procession and then the ceremony took another hour. I found an outdoor cafe, ate dinner with wine, contemplated the day's events, and with a joyful and grateful heart walked in the cold rain back to my hotel room for a hot shower and warm bed.
18 Apr -- Belorado
I sat and talked with the young pilgrim with the bad knee while we waited for the bus. He seemed to be in a bad mood as he explained that he was with a group from his university and they were traveling together. But "relationships were unraveling and fortunately I've bummed my knee, so that gave me an excuse to bus to the next town without them." Other than fellow pilgrims laughing and joking about the "industrial strength snorers" keeping everyone awake the night before, this was the first complaint I'd heard from a pilgrim about their group. Most of the pilgrims I've traveled with are my age or older, with some exceptions. Typically, we have begun our Camino alone and we make friends along the way. We have embraced advice of experienced pilgrims who tell us "nobody can walk your Camino, you must walk your own Camino your own way."
I believe this means that we must walk at our own pace, whether fast or slow. Stopping when we need to, pushing on when we can. Just as in life, we will meet others along the way. Sometimes we will be in step, sometimes we won't. We can not allow others to dictate our pace. We may walk together for a season and then part; we may stay together for the entire journey. I thought about trying to explain this to my young companion, but I decided that he will figure it out eventually, in his own time. I sat and allowed him to complain about his friends, his knee, the hot weather, the lousy dormitories, the dust, how hard his professors are pushing him, his parents, his girlfriend, politics.... He talked until the bus arrived an hour later. When we parted, he said that it was very nice to meet me and that he had enjoyed our conversation. He now had a big smile on his face and he said, "I guess I can get to the bar before everyone else today!" Sometimes, all a person needs is a good listening to.
After arriving in Belorado, I walked the Camino until I found a nice albergue. I got my assigned bed, unloaded my pack, washed clothes and hung them out to dry, and then took off to explore the town and get some lunch. Just like every Spanish city or village I've been in, there was a church in the town square with shops and cafes circling the perimeter. I stopped and purchased a bocadillo and a coke. I sat outside and watched the children playing on and around the bandstand in the center of the square. They were laughing and squealing, running and jumping, and pretty much enjoying themselves. Their parents were nowhere in sight. If there was a conflict, they worked it out. If one fell, the others helped him up and dusted him off. If a little one could not reach the water fountain, the bigger ones lifted her to the faucet. I have noticed this behavior in every town square. The kids are allowed to be kids. No signs that say "Keep Off," "Keep Out," "Do Not Enter." It's refreshing to see the children taking care of themselves and each other without parents hovering about.
I walked around town until it siesta time. It was so hot that I went back to the albergue to get out of the heat. I decided to do what the rest of the population of Spain was doing: I took a nap.
More pilgrims arrived with more noise in the courtyard and more activity in the kitchen below me, so I got up and went for another long walk. Towards evening, it seemed that all of the locals were out and about and they were dressed up in their Sunday best. The bars were offering tapas and wine, but the crowds seemed subdued. Then the bells of the church stared ringing and everyone finished up and walked to the church. I wasn't dressed for church, although I'm sure it wouldn't have mattered, so I went back to the albergue to have dinner with the pilgrims.
I met Doug and his son, Colin, from England. And Pam Carlquist, who said she was a writer from Utah, joined us. The albergue's restaurant was excellent. Three course meal with wine for 10 euro. Doug is a retired engineer who previously worked in carbon research. Colin works for LandRover /Jaguar and gets to drive all over the world. We had a great time talking about our adventures. Just as we finished our meal, we heard loud music outside in the street. The music was sad and dirge-like with slow drum beats echoing down the narrow street outside the albergue. We realized it was the processional after Good Friday mass in the church. So we all rushed downstairs to watch.
I watched in awe as the procession slowly and solemnly passed by. The costumes and the pageantry were amazing. When the crowd had passed, Doug and Colin took off to follow as it wound its way around the town. I went out to retrieve my laundry, repack my things for an early start tomorrow, and catch up on my blog. I've had yet another lovely evening to be thankful for.
I believe this means that we must walk at our own pace, whether fast or slow. Stopping when we need to, pushing on when we can. Just as in life, we will meet others along the way. Sometimes we will be in step, sometimes we won't. We can not allow others to dictate our pace. We may walk together for a season and then part; we may stay together for the entire journey. I thought about trying to explain this to my young companion, but I decided that he will figure it out eventually, in his own time. I sat and allowed him to complain about his friends, his knee, the hot weather, the lousy dormitories, the dust, how hard his professors are pushing him, his parents, his girlfriend, politics.... He talked until the bus arrived an hour later. When we parted, he said that it was very nice to meet me and that he had enjoyed our conversation. He now had a big smile on his face and he said, "I guess I can get to the bar before everyone else today!" Sometimes, all a person needs is a good listening to.
After arriving in Belorado, I walked the Camino until I found a nice albergue. I got my assigned bed, unloaded my pack, washed clothes and hung them out to dry, and then took off to explore the town and get some lunch. Just like every Spanish city or village I've been in, there was a church in the town square with shops and cafes circling the perimeter. I stopped and purchased a bocadillo and a coke. I sat outside and watched the children playing on and around the bandstand in the center of the square. They were laughing and squealing, running and jumping, and pretty much enjoying themselves. Their parents were nowhere in sight. If there was a conflict, they worked it out. If one fell, the others helped him up and dusted him off. If a little one could not reach the water fountain, the bigger ones lifted her to the faucet. I have noticed this behavior in every town square. The kids are allowed to be kids. No signs that say "Keep Off," "Keep Out," "Do Not Enter." It's refreshing to see the children taking care of themselves and each other without parents hovering about.
I walked around town until it siesta time. It was so hot that I went back to the albergue to get out of the heat. I decided to do what the rest of the population of Spain was doing: I took a nap.
More pilgrims arrived with more noise in the courtyard and more activity in the kitchen below me, so I got up and went for another long walk. Towards evening, it seemed that all of the locals were out and about and they were dressed up in their Sunday best. The bars were offering tapas and wine, but the crowds seemed subdued. Then the bells of the church stared ringing and everyone finished up and walked to the church. I wasn't dressed for church, although I'm sure it wouldn't have mattered, so I went back to the albergue to have dinner with the pilgrims.
I met Doug and his son, Colin, from England. And Pam Carlquist, who said she was a writer from Utah, joined us. The albergue's restaurant was excellent. Three course meal with wine for 10 euro. Doug is a retired engineer who previously worked in carbon research. Colin works for LandRover /Jaguar and gets to drive all over the world. We had a great time talking about our adventures. Just as we finished our meal, we heard loud music outside in the street. The music was sad and dirge-like with slow drum beats echoing down the narrow street outside the albergue. We realized it was the processional after Good Friday mass in the church. So we all rushed downstairs to watch.
I watched in awe as the procession slowly and solemnly passed by. The costumes and the pageantry were amazing. When the crowd had passed, Doug and Colin took off to follow as it wound its way around the town. I went out to retrieve my laundry, repack my things for an early start tomorrow, and catch up on my blog. I've had yet another lovely evening to be thankful for.
Friday, April 18, 2014
18 Apr -- Navarrete - Belorado
I woke up this morning and packed up after everyone had left for the Camino. There was no use pretending I was going to join them. I loaded up, donned my pack and headed out the door. I had gone to the tourist information office the day before and got the bus schedule and map to the bus station. I was set, or so I thought.
The bus station was not on the Camino, it is on a thoroughfare on the outskirts of town. The Camino winds through the town, a fact that is not obvious until you get a city map and really take a good look at it. That meant that I had to cross the Camino twice as I walked across town to the station. I have noticed that in every village I have stayed in, the only people wandering about town in the early mornings are old men, old women, and Camino pilgrims. So here I am, loaded with a backpack, hiking poles, and wearing clothing that just SCREAMS "Camino pilgrim" as I try to make my way to the bus station. As I walk, the old men and women start yelling at me telling me that I'm going the wrong way. "Camino aqui!" I keep hearing them say as I smile and wave them off. They just shake their heads and walk away. One woman was not going to let me get lost on her watch. She was outside sweeping her step when I came by. She yelled "Vas por el Camino equivocado!! El Camino no esta aqui!!" I said, "I'm trying to go to the bus station!" But she didn't understand me, so she went after me with her broom - steering me toward the Camino trail. I let her redirect me because she was only trying to help, and I was afraid of her broom. Then I went down a block to avoid her and turned toward the bus stop again. Not 10 meters later another person tried to redirect me so this time I said "Voy autobus station." He seemed to understand so he waved me off with a "Buen Camino!"
I was just about a block away from the stop when a elderly man came up to me and once again tried to help me find my way. "No esta Camino, por aqui." This time he grabbed my elbow and gently steered me toward the trail. I tried protesting, but I realized that not only could he not understand me, but he couldn't hear me either. I kept saying "Voy autobus! Autobus estacion!" He just smiled and nodded and kept talking and leading me back to the Camino. I had plenty of time before the bus was scheduled to arrive, so I gave in and let him "help" me. As we were walking, he was telling me that he has done the Camino four times in his life. He seemed quite proud of this fact. He said a lot of things I didn't understand and I tried to protest at first, but he just kept talking, smiling, nodding his head, looking at me with sad eyes that said "This poor pilgrim doesn't know what she's doing."
Then he was telling me about his grandson, (I think he was anyway) and he seemed very proud that the grandson was doing his first Camino for Easter. He kept talking and talking and then he asked me, "Quieres cafe?" That I understood, so I used an exaggerated nod to indicate that yes -- I would LOVE some coffee!! He turned down another street and smiled at me as he said "Usted no dessea que esta uno, es malo." Then he winked at me and I knew he was disparaging the coffee shop on the corner. He said "Sigueme." And like a good little pilgrim I did as I was told, I followed him. We finally made it to a bakery where he ordered "Dos cafe con leches." We sat down and drank our coffee together, him chattering on in Spanish and me listening intently, smiling, and laughing with him each time he laughed. When our coffee cups were empty, we stood to part and he patted me on the head, leaned over and kissed my cheeks and then hugged me tightly. He said "Buen Camino! Vaya con Dios!" and he pointed me toward the sign that read "Camino de Santiago." He walked away with a spring in his step that I'm sure I didn't see earlier. I smiled and turned toward the Camino. I stood there and rearranged my backpack, took my hat off and put it on again, adjusted my hiking poles, and then when I was sure he was far enough away, I limped as fast as I could in the opposite direction.
The "bus station" was a bench on the side of the highway. There was NO sign indicating this fact. I walked up a ways looking for the sign. I turned around and walked back down a ways, no sign. I came across another old man walking his dog and before he could tell me I wasn't on the Camino, I asked "Autobus por la Burgos??" He nodded and pointed at the bench. Satisfied, I took off my pack and sat down to wait. And wait, and wait. The bus was scheduled to arrive at 11:00am. Another pilgrim came limping toward me at 11:30 and asked "Autobus?" I said "Yes" in English and he let out a big sigh and with a smile he said "Brilliant!" as he plopped down heavily onto the bench. "I was coming as fast as I could with my bum knee." he explained. "Did I miss the bus?" I laughed and said "No, I've been here since a quarter of, and there's been no bus. I bummed my knee too. I think my Camino Frances is done."
The bus station was not on the Camino, it is on a thoroughfare on the outskirts of town. The Camino winds through the town, a fact that is not obvious until you get a city map and really take a good look at it. That meant that I had to cross the Camino twice as I walked across town to the station. I have noticed that in every village I have stayed in, the only people wandering about town in the early mornings are old men, old women, and Camino pilgrims. So here I am, loaded with a backpack, hiking poles, and wearing clothing that just SCREAMS "Camino pilgrim" as I try to make my way to the bus station. As I walk, the old men and women start yelling at me telling me that I'm going the wrong way. "Camino aqui!" I keep hearing them say as I smile and wave them off. They just shake their heads and walk away. One woman was not going to let me get lost on her watch. She was outside sweeping her step when I came by. She yelled "Vas por el Camino equivocado!! El Camino no esta aqui!!" I said, "I'm trying to go to the bus station!" But she didn't understand me, so she went after me with her broom - steering me toward the Camino trail. I let her redirect me because she was only trying to help, and I was afraid of her broom. Then I went down a block to avoid her and turned toward the bus stop again. Not 10 meters later another person tried to redirect me so this time I said "Voy autobus station." He seemed to understand so he waved me off with a "Buen Camino!"
I was just about a block away from the stop when a elderly man came up to me and once again tried to help me find my way. "No esta Camino, por aqui." This time he grabbed my elbow and gently steered me toward the trail. I tried protesting, but I realized that not only could he not understand me, but he couldn't hear me either. I kept saying "Voy autobus! Autobus estacion!" He just smiled and nodded and kept talking and leading me back to the Camino. I had plenty of time before the bus was scheduled to arrive, so I gave in and let him "help" me. As we were walking, he was telling me that he has done the Camino four times in his life. He seemed quite proud of this fact. He said a lot of things I didn't understand and I tried to protest at first, but he just kept talking, smiling, nodding his head, looking at me with sad eyes that said "This poor pilgrim doesn't know what she's doing."
Then he was telling me about his grandson, (I think he was anyway) and he seemed very proud that the grandson was doing his first Camino for Easter. He kept talking and talking and then he asked me, "Quieres cafe?" That I understood, so I used an exaggerated nod to indicate that yes -- I would LOVE some coffee!! He turned down another street and smiled at me as he said "Usted no dessea que esta uno, es malo." Then he winked at me and I knew he was disparaging the coffee shop on the corner. He said "Sigueme." And like a good little pilgrim I did as I was told, I followed him. We finally made it to a bakery where he ordered "Dos cafe con leches." We sat down and drank our coffee together, him chattering on in Spanish and me listening intently, smiling, and laughing with him each time he laughed. When our coffee cups were empty, we stood to part and he patted me on the head, leaned over and kissed my cheeks and then hugged me tightly. He said "Buen Camino! Vaya con Dios!" and he pointed me toward the sign that read "Camino de Santiago." He walked away with a spring in his step that I'm sure I didn't see earlier. I smiled and turned toward the Camino. I stood there and rearranged my backpack, took my hat off and put it on again, adjusted my hiking poles, and then when I was sure he was far enough away, I limped as fast as I could in the opposite direction.
The "bus station" was a bench on the side of the highway. There was NO sign indicating this fact. I walked up a ways looking for the sign. I turned around and walked back down a ways, no sign. I came across another old man walking his dog and before he could tell me I wasn't on the Camino, I asked "Autobus por la Burgos??" He nodded and pointed at the bench. Satisfied, I took off my pack and sat down to wait. And wait, and wait. The bus was scheduled to arrive at 11:00am. Another pilgrim came limping toward me at 11:30 and asked "Autobus?" I said "Yes" in English and he let out a big sigh and with a smile he said "Brilliant!" as he plopped down heavily onto the bench. "I was coming as fast as I could with my bum knee." he explained. "Did I miss the bus?" I laughed and said "No, I've been here since a quarter of, and there's been no bus. I bummed my knee too. I think my Camino Frances is done."
17 Apr -- Villatuerta - Navarrete
I woke up later than usual this morning because the pilgrim from Spain requested that our breakfast be served at 8 am and I wasn't going to argue with her! That was actually great with me since I've be awakened every morning at 5 am so far. She said that true Spaniards start the day later than the pilgrims do. Only the albergues and coffee houses along the Camino actually open early, and they only do that to accommodate the pilgrims.
So, breakfast was awesome! Cafe con leche, scrambled eggs, whole wheat toast, some kind of sweet cake, fruit, yogurt, cereal, and a variety of juices. I was in heaven. Most places only offer bread with butter and jam for breakfast. But at least I can get my coffee.
We set off for Estella, but as usual, my knee prevented me from keeping up. They left me with hugs and a Buen Camino! And they were on their way at a pretty good clip. I walked approx 5 km to Estella, found the bus station and waited for the bus. On the bus, I sat with a young man from Germany who studying radiology at the university in Frankfurt. We road together to Longrono. I then walked the 8 km to Navarrette where I saw the young German again. We stopped at a bar and had tapas and cafe con leche together. He was a real cutie, and spoke English quite well.
So, breakfast was awesome! Cafe con leche, scrambled eggs, whole wheat toast, some kind of sweet cake, fruit, yogurt, cereal, and a variety of juices. I was in heaven. Most places only offer bread with butter and jam for breakfast. But at least I can get my coffee.
We set off for Estella, but as usual, my knee prevented me from keeping up. They left me with hugs and a Buen Camino! And they were on their way at a pretty good clip. I walked approx 5 km to Estella, found the bus station and waited for the bus. On the bus, I sat with a young man from Germany who studying radiology at the university in Frankfurt. We road together to Longrono. I then walked the 8 km to Navarrette where I saw the young German again. We stopped at a bar and had tapas and cafe con leche together. He was a real cutie, and spoke English quite well.
I found the albergue I had reserved and I met two ladies who had already checked into the same dorm. One was from Australia and the other from South Africa. Before I hit the showers, we made plans to go out for tapas together after siesta time.
I went out early and toured the beautiful cathedral in the town square. It was built in the 15th century and the artwork inside was exquisite. I took my time walking through the rooms and taking photos when the other two women caught up with me.
We found a nice outdoor bar where we had tapas and wine across from the cathedral. My German buddy from the bus showed up with a Danish woman from the albergue that they were staying in. We spent the evening laughing and enjoying the beautiful evening.
It seemed as though the entire village was out and about in the town square, so we went there to see what might be going on. We were just in time to catch the Holy Thursday Processional coming out of the church. It was an impressive sight. As the processional passed, I realized that my knee was swelling again. So, back to the albergue for me. The others followed the procession with the entire village pounding on drums and playing some kind of reed instruments. I could hear them going for a couple of hours. I took some meds and fell asleep. Pooped but content.
I went out early and toured the beautiful cathedral in the town square. It was built in the 15th century and the artwork inside was exquisite. I took my time walking through the rooms and taking photos when the other two women caught up with me.
We found a nice outdoor bar where we had tapas and wine across from the cathedral. My German buddy from the bus showed up with a Danish woman from the albergue that they were staying in. We spent the evening laughing and enjoying the beautiful evening.
It seemed as though the entire village was out and about in the town square, so we went there to see what might be going on. We were just in time to catch the Holy Thursday Processional coming out of the church. It was an impressive sight. As the processional passed, I realized that my knee was swelling again. So, back to the albergue for me. The others followed the procession with the entire village pounding on drums and playing some kind of reed instruments. I could hear them going for a couple of hours. I took some meds and fell asleep. Pooped but content.
Thursday, April 17, 2014
16 April -- Puente la Reina - Villatuerta
I got up this morning feeling better and decided to try once again to walk the Camino. I shipped half the contents of my pack ahead via transport to Villatuerta. It is a 17 km walk and everyone here assured me that it is an easy one.
They lied.
I'm beginning to think that the Spanish people here love to fool the gullible touristas with promises of "You'll be fine! It is nothing! No problem!"
There were steep inclines and descents. There were rocks.... tons of them. There were long staircases with slippery steps on which my poles could not find purchase.
But there were also beautiful fields of grape-seed in full bloom, waves of barley fields, olive groves, vineyards, old cemeteries, old churches, smiling people, and happy pilgrims. If it weren't for the pain in my knee, I would be loving this.
But there were also beautiful fields of grape-seed in full bloom, waves of barley fields, olive groves, vineyards, old cemeteries, old churches, smiling people, and happy pilgrims. If it weren't for the pain in my knee, I would be loving this.
But because of the pain, is was another agonizing day. I met up with Cathy from Chicago. She was taking it as slowly as I was, so we became walking buddies. In one town, we met a group of middle-school aged children who were walking with their families. One young lady befriended us and asked if we would help her practice her English. We were happy to help her, with the stipulation that she also teach us Spanish. We agreed and walked about 7 km together. It was a nice diversion. Then we approached a long slippery staircase, her parents called to her to catch up with them so they could assure her safety. They went ahead and Cathy and I were left alone again.
We limped along together and the heat began to take a toll on us. This part of the Camino winds through miles and miles of farmland, but no shade. It was a long way in the hot sun.
Cathy met some people she had begun with and we parted. I found the Casa Magica and it was indeed magic. There were two other female pilgrims and two males. The youngest pilgrim was a former navy nurse and was walking the Camino between her active duty and beginning college to get her Nurse Practitioner Degree.
The other woman was a Spaniard from Madrid who has walked 4 different Caminos. She was hale and hearty and a real hoot!! The men left the hostel to go to a bar for supper and I didn't see them again. We three women shared dinner at the hostel where Miguel cooked a fabulous three course meal for us. We downed a couple of bottles of wine and shared our experiences both on and off the camino. The older woman went to bed and the other nurse and I got into a discussion about public health and the lack of services for mental health in the US. We talked for hours. It was a nice evening with stimulating conversation. Oh, she had also served in the Peace Corps previously. I've actually met quite a few former Peace Corps volunteers.
Long day, good dinner, happy me.... Good night!
Cathy met some people she had begun with and we parted. I found the Casa Magica and it was indeed magic. There were two other female pilgrims and two males. The youngest pilgrim was a former navy nurse and was walking the Camino between her active duty and beginning college to get her Nurse Practitioner Degree.
The other woman was a Spaniard from Madrid who has walked 4 different Caminos. She was hale and hearty and a real hoot!! The men left the hostel to go to a bar for supper and I didn't see them again. We three women shared dinner at the hostel where Miguel cooked a fabulous three course meal for us. We downed a couple of bottles of wine and shared our experiences both on and off the camino. The older woman went to bed and the other nurse and I got into a discussion about public health and the lack of services for mental health in the US. We talked for hours. It was a nice evening with stimulating conversation. Oh, she had also served in the Peace Corps previously. I've actually met quite a few former Peace Corps volunteers.
Long day, good dinner, happy me.... Good night!
Wednesday, April 16, 2014
15 April - Puente la Reina
So, after yesterday's trek, my knee was once again swollen. I decided to stay another day in Puente la Reina to rest. I used the day to catch up on washing clothes, emailing, and blogging. I also went online to book a hotel for the Easter weekend, since every one is telling me that Easter will book fast and I'd better find a place to stay before it's too late.
I got to meet Daniel and Maddy from Florida. We sat at the outdoor bar and shared our experiences, some laughter, and sangria! We had quite a lot in common and I thoroughly enjoyed the company.
But I finally accepted the fact that my Camino Frances is probably over. I sent Frank a forlorn message about how much my knee was hurting, how different the Camino is compared to what I was expecting. and how much I miss him. So, he changed his reservations and decided to come next week instead of waiting until mid-May.
I was so happy!! One of the disappointments I'm facing is that each time I meet a new group of pilgrims, I'm so happy and excited to meet new friends that I hope I can walk with, but my knee prohibits me from keeping up with the group and I am then left behind. It's getting old and depressing. Sometimes I see them again if they decide to stay an extra day in one place. But, for the most part, the group moves on and I don't get to see them again. Another group arrives, and while they are very accepting and happy to meet me, if I can't keep up - well.... See ya!
I also find that because of knee injury, I am more focused on the pain than on my surroundings. Instead of enjoying the spectacular scenery, I am worried about each step that I take, carefully choosing my steps to mitigate the pain. I look down at the trail and where I am stepping so much that I am missing the beauty surrounding me.
Yesterday, I made a it a point to just stop and look around occasionally. As I mentioned, the scenery is quite spectacular. Just the fact that I am walking through villages in Spain is pretty cool. I literally stop and smell the roses - or in this case - the roadside lavender, as often as I can. I am so grateful to have this opportunity, so I thank God almost every hour.
And now, Frank will be joining me. How blessed am I?
I got to meet Daniel and Maddy from Florida. We sat at the outdoor bar and shared our experiences, some laughter, and sangria! We had quite a lot in common and I thoroughly enjoyed the company.
But I finally accepted the fact that my Camino Frances is probably over. I sent Frank a forlorn message about how much my knee was hurting, how different the Camino is compared to what I was expecting. and how much I miss him. So, he changed his reservations and decided to come next week instead of waiting until mid-May.
I was so happy!! One of the disappointments I'm facing is that each time I meet a new group of pilgrims, I'm so happy and excited to meet new friends that I hope I can walk with, but my knee prohibits me from keeping up with the group and I am then left behind. It's getting old and depressing. Sometimes I see them again if they decide to stay an extra day in one place. But, for the most part, the group moves on and I don't get to see them again. Another group arrives, and while they are very accepting and happy to meet me, if I can't keep up - well.... See ya!
I also find that because of knee injury, I am more focused on the pain than on my surroundings. Instead of enjoying the spectacular scenery, I am worried about each step that I take, carefully choosing my steps to mitigate the pain. I look down at the trail and where I am stepping so much that I am missing the beauty surrounding me.
Yesterday, I made a it a point to just stop and look around occasionally. As I mentioned, the scenery is quite spectacular. Just the fact that I am walking through villages in Spain is pretty cool. I literally stop and smell the roses - or in this case - the roadside lavender, as often as I can. I am so grateful to have this opportunity, so I thank God almost every hour.
And now, Frank will be joining me. How blessed am I?
Tuesday, April 15, 2014
14 Apr -- Pamplona - La Puente la Reina
I met Erin and Emily for coffee at the albergue. Afterward, we started off at a good pace with a large group of pilgrims. About 45 minutes into the walk, my knee was already hurting. I stopped at a pharmacy to get a better knee brace and the others went ahead. There was no way I could keep up their pace.
Even with the brace, I could tell I was going to be in trouble. But, like an idiot, I felt that I had to go on. For some reason, I just couldn't stop. The walk to the Alto de Perdon (the Mount of Forgiveness) was long and steep, but I kept telling myself that it wasn't too bad. The sculpture was impressive and I got chills from recognizing the scene in the movie. Some of the pilgrims I had met in Pamplona arrived after me, they had stopped for lunch while I had gone ahead of them. It was all very nice and a great moment for me. But the descent nearly killed me!! It was a pretty tough descent with large, loose round rocks on the trail. My hiking poles would sometimes slip on the smooth surfaces of the rocks and my knee was screaming for relief. I didn't time my descent, but I know it took a very, very long time. Many, many pilgrims passed me. Some stopped to ask if I was alright. Most just whizzed by. When I finally made it to the bottom, I could barely walk.
I met Mary at the bottom of the descent where she was taking a break. We started walking together. A male pilgrim walked up behind us and asked me if I was ok. We exchanged a little small talk, he said his name is Gunter, he's retired, he's German, he's done many, many long distance hikes, I should take care of my knees.... So then he pulled ahead because I was still walking so slowly and we watched him quickly gain distance between us. Then, when he was about 50 feet ahead of us and still on a slight descent, we witnessed him trip, fall face first, and slide on the rocks. Mary and I both gasped. Then we saw him jump up and grab his face. There was blood everywhere. We rushed to him - Mary rushed much faster than I did - and we saw that he had a gash on his forehead, the skin on his nose and cheeks was scraped off, his thumb appeared to be dislocated, and he had another nasty gash on the palm of his hand. I didn't have my usual medical kit with me, not even a bandaid! Mary had some antiseptic spray, but other than that there was little we could do. Just using our hands, we could not get the bleeding to stop from the gashes. Another pilgrim came up who actually had a useful first aid kit. As he bandaged Gunter, I said I would go ahead to the next town and get help. I knew that he needed more than first aid, so I was looking for a medical center, ER, or doctor's office. At the albergue that I finally limped into I asked if there was a doctor or medical office in town. They took one look at me and thought it was for me. I explained that another pilgrim was injured and he needed help. There wasn't anything in town so I asked the hostitalera to call a taxi so that we could transport Gunter to a larger town for medical treatment. She said it would be about 20 minutes, so I said "Call now!" knowing it would take a while for him to get here.
When Mary saw me, she said "You practically ran! How's your knee?" I honestly didn't feel the pain until she mentioned it again. THEN I nearly fell over from the wave of pain I felt. Gunter and the other pilgrim (later found out he was a dentist) arrived and Gunter ordered a beer from the bar. He said "At least I can still hold a drink!" Minutes later, the taxi showed up and Gunter made him wait until he finished his beer, it didn't take him long. We then jumped into the taxi and sped toward the next big town. I think we passed several villages before finally getting to Puerta la Reina.
In Puerta la Reina the doctor's office that the taxi driver first took us to was closed. So he drove us to the emergency medical center, which I thought should have been his first choice. Anyway, we dropped Gunter off and the thought of trying to walk from the center of town back to the oustskirts almost made me cry. So I made sure Gunter was in good hands, then I asked the taxi driver to take me back to the albergue we had passed. He looked a little impatient, but he said ok and we threw my pack back inside the taxi. He sped through town as I realized that his speeding really had nothing to do with Gunter's medical condition. When we got to the albergue, he practically threw my backpack into my arms and rushed off. That's when my Bluetooth headset started saying "Out of range, trying to connect."
My brand-new iPhone was in the back seat of the cab. That was almost too much for me to bear.
A pilgrim I had met on my first day in Roncesvalles saw me and rushed up to me to see if I was OK. He and his crew are from the states and he is filming a documentary about the Camino. When we first met in Roncesvalles, he told me he was from Oklahoma, so I began calling him "Oklahoma" and he called me "Texas." I guess he could see that I was in distress, so he offered his assistance. I gave him a quick Reader's Digest version of what was happening, ending with my fear that I'd never see my phone again. He said, "OK, let's figure this out. What's the phone number for the taxi?" I said "I don't know, the hospitalera at the albergue in Uterga called him." Then I realized that I had a listing of all the phone numbers to the albergues on the route. So I looked it up. The guy at the bar wouldn't let us use his phone and Oklahoma's phone was in town with his associate who was shopping for dinner. There was a German couple from France sitting at a table listening to my sad narrative and the man said he had a European phone so he offered to make the call for us. He called and the person who answered didn't speak English. Oklahoma took the phone and asked for the taxi driver's phone number. I wrote it down as he repeated it into the handset. We then called that number and no one answered. The German couple left for dinner. And then Erin and Emily showed up!!! Erin asked what was wrong and after repeating the story AGAIN, she said she had international coverage so she gave her phone to Oklahoma who called the taxi driver. This time he got an answer and told the driver that my phone was in the back seat. The driver affirmed that he had found it, but he was now two villages away and he didn't live in Puente la Reina. He said he would drop the phone off at the hotel reception desk in the morning.
Oklahoma shared this news with all of us and we let out a big cheer!! Beer was ordered and consumed. Showers taken and dirty clothes exchanged for clean ones and we all went to the restaurant for an excellent dinner, outrageous conversation, and much, much more wine and beer.
By the end of the evening, Gunter had been bandaged and stitched, my phone was to be returned to me in the morning, I was reunited with friends, and Oklahoma had a good story to tell. All in all, another great day.
Even with the brace, I could tell I was going to be in trouble. But, like an idiot, I felt that I had to go on. For some reason, I just couldn't stop. The walk to the Alto de Perdon (the Mount of Forgiveness) was long and steep, but I kept telling myself that it wasn't too bad. The sculpture was impressive and I got chills from recognizing the scene in the movie. Some of the pilgrims I had met in Pamplona arrived after me, they had stopped for lunch while I had gone ahead of them. It was all very nice and a great moment for me. But the descent nearly killed me!! It was a pretty tough descent with large, loose round rocks on the trail. My hiking poles would sometimes slip on the smooth surfaces of the rocks and my knee was screaming for relief. I didn't time my descent, but I know it took a very, very long time. Many, many pilgrims passed me. Some stopped to ask if I was alright. Most just whizzed by. When I finally made it to the bottom, I could barely walk.
I met Mary at the bottom of the descent where she was taking a break. We started walking together. A male pilgrim walked up behind us and asked me if I was ok. We exchanged a little small talk, he said his name is Gunter, he's retired, he's German, he's done many, many long distance hikes, I should take care of my knees.... So then he pulled ahead because I was still walking so slowly and we watched him quickly gain distance between us. Then, when he was about 50 feet ahead of us and still on a slight descent, we witnessed him trip, fall face first, and slide on the rocks. Mary and I both gasped. Then we saw him jump up and grab his face. There was blood everywhere. We rushed to him - Mary rushed much faster than I did - and we saw that he had a gash on his forehead, the skin on his nose and cheeks was scraped off, his thumb appeared to be dislocated, and he had another nasty gash on the palm of his hand. I didn't have my usual medical kit with me, not even a bandaid! Mary had some antiseptic spray, but other than that there was little we could do. Just using our hands, we could not get the bleeding to stop from the gashes. Another pilgrim came up who actually had a useful first aid kit. As he bandaged Gunter, I said I would go ahead to the next town and get help. I knew that he needed more than first aid, so I was looking for a medical center, ER, or doctor's office. At the albergue that I finally limped into I asked if there was a doctor or medical office in town. They took one look at me and thought it was for me. I explained that another pilgrim was injured and he needed help. There wasn't anything in town so I asked the hostitalera to call a taxi so that we could transport Gunter to a larger town for medical treatment. She said it would be about 20 minutes, so I said "Call now!" knowing it would take a while for him to get here.
When Mary saw me, she said "You practically ran! How's your knee?" I honestly didn't feel the pain until she mentioned it again. THEN I nearly fell over from the wave of pain I felt. Gunter and the other pilgrim (later found out he was a dentist) arrived and Gunter ordered a beer from the bar. He said "At least I can still hold a drink!" Minutes later, the taxi showed up and Gunter made him wait until he finished his beer, it didn't take him long. We then jumped into the taxi and sped toward the next big town. I think we passed several villages before finally getting to Puerta la Reina.
In Puerta la Reina the doctor's office that the taxi driver first took us to was closed. So he drove us to the emergency medical center, which I thought should have been his first choice. Anyway, we dropped Gunter off and the thought of trying to walk from the center of town back to the oustskirts almost made me cry. So I made sure Gunter was in good hands, then I asked the taxi driver to take me back to the albergue we had passed. He looked a little impatient, but he said ok and we threw my pack back inside the taxi. He sped through town as I realized that his speeding really had nothing to do with Gunter's medical condition. When we got to the albergue, he practically threw my backpack into my arms and rushed off. That's when my Bluetooth headset started saying "Out of range, trying to connect."
My brand-new iPhone was in the back seat of the cab. That was almost too much for me to bear.
A pilgrim I had met on my first day in Roncesvalles saw me and rushed up to me to see if I was OK. He and his crew are from the states and he is filming a documentary about the Camino. When we first met in Roncesvalles, he told me he was from Oklahoma, so I began calling him "Oklahoma" and he called me "Texas." I guess he could see that I was in distress, so he offered his assistance. I gave him a quick Reader's Digest version of what was happening, ending with my fear that I'd never see my phone again. He said, "OK, let's figure this out. What's the phone number for the taxi?" I said "I don't know, the hospitalera at the albergue in Uterga called him." Then I realized that I had a listing of all the phone numbers to the albergues on the route. So I looked it up. The guy at the bar wouldn't let us use his phone and Oklahoma's phone was in town with his associate who was shopping for dinner. There was a German couple from France sitting at a table listening to my sad narrative and the man said he had a European phone so he offered to make the call for us. He called and the person who answered didn't speak English. Oklahoma took the phone and asked for the taxi driver's phone number. I wrote it down as he repeated it into the handset. We then called that number and no one answered. The German couple left for dinner. And then Erin and Emily showed up!!! Erin asked what was wrong and after repeating the story AGAIN, she said she had international coverage so she gave her phone to Oklahoma who called the taxi driver. This time he got an answer and told the driver that my phone was in the back seat. The driver affirmed that he had found it, but he was now two villages away and he didn't live in Puente la Reina. He said he would drop the phone off at the hotel reception desk in the morning.
Oklahoma shared this news with all of us and we let out a big cheer!! Beer was ordered and consumed. Showers taken and dirty clothes exchanged for clean ones and we all went to the restaurant for an excellent dinner, outrageous conversation, and much, much more wine and beer.
By the end of the evening, Gunter had been bandaged and stitched, my phone was to be returned to me in the morning, I was reunited with friends, and Oklahoma had a good story to tell. All in all, another great day.
13 April -- Palm Sunday in Pamplona
This morning I met Emile and Emmy while walking to the square and followed them to the Pilgrim's mass. It was all in Spanish, but with all those years of attending Catholic masses - it was pretty easy to follow. After the mass, Emile and Emmy left the church but I stuck around to take photos of the interior. There were many people waiting around for something, but I didn't know what. After a few minutes, a priest came out and started handing out palm branches. He gave me one and I said "Gracias." But I didn't want to carry it around in my backpack, so I broke off a small piece to keep. All of a sudden, everyone in the church began walking outside so I joined them. Next thing I knew, I was part of the processional that was accompanying the statue of Jesus to the Cathedral!! Everyone was waving their palms and singing, so I waved my piece of palm and walked along with them. As we approached the cathedral, the tower bells began to ring and everyone was so excited. It was a pretty cool experience!
After the procession, we entered the cathedral and I was able to get a good look at it today. It had been open yesterday, but they were charging an admission. So I was happy to get into it today. It was quite splendid.
As I left the cathedral, I saw Helen walking towards me! We hugged and she was happy that I had made it to Pamplona. She introduced me to Erin and Emily, a mother and daughter from California. We went to a sidewalk cafe and ordered tapas and beer. So far, everything I've eaten while in Spain has been delicious. They don't use a lot of spices and all the vegetables are fresh so the natural flavors really come out. Helen left for an albergue outside of Pamplona, so Erin, Emily, and I planned to meet for dinner in the Plaza del Castillo.
I went back to the hotel to catch up on my blog and to Skype with Frank. Then took a short nap.
I found Emily in the plaza and Erin was waiting at a bench. We walked around and finally decided to sit and have wine at an outside bar after we were informed that we couldn't order dinner before 7:00pm. I thoroughly enjoyed their company, Emily is originally from Liverpool but now lives in CA. Erin left her two adolescent sons at home with her husband and is enjoying the break. We ended up dining at a very nice restaurant and it wasn't until the next morning that we realised that it was Heminway's restaurant. The food was delicious and plentiful! We had a three course meal of salad, baked trout, and desert. The salad included white asparagus, which is a specialty of this region. They grow it under tarps to keep it from turning green. It was very tender and tasty. I ordered sangria and it was better than any that I get in the states.... except for my own recipe!! Two other pilgrims joined us for coffee and desert. Afterward, we planned to meet at the albergue in the morning to walk to Puente la Reina together.
My knee is still a little sore, but I've been testing it out all day and I think it will hold up. I'm sending my pack ahead by transfer service just in case.
Another wonderful experience on the Camino.
Sunday, April 13, 2014
12 April -- Larrasoaña - Pamplona
I remembered that Istvan often drove from Bizkarreta to Pamplona to pick pilgrims up at the train station. So, on the chance that he may be driving through here, I decided to call to see if I could catch a ride. He said that he wasn't scheduled to pick anyone up today, but when he heard that I was injured he offered to pick me up and drive me to Pamplona!! He had to take some pilgrims to SJPDP first thing in the morning and he wouldn't be back until 11:00am, but if I wanted to wait he would come and get me. I told him I would pay for his fuel and I would meet him in the town square.
Everyone else was leaving, they patted me on the shoulder and wished me luck as they took off for the Camino trail. I was left sitting alone in the town square with my pack and my poles. It was a sad moment.
I decided that if I didn't snap out of it, I was going to cry again. So I got up and, using my poles for support, I set off to find some coffee and breakfast. I limped across the square into the village toward the market. On the way, I saw a sign that read "Casa Elita, Open all year, Cafe American." So I turned and walked to the end of the road where there was a two story building with a cafe on the ground floor. The lights were on, but the door was locked. I thought, boy my bad luck is holding up. Then I read a note taped to the door that read "Para la campana del anillo servicio." I whipped out the Google translator app that I had loaded onto my iPhone and saw "Ring bell for service." So I rang the bell. A woman poked her head out of the upstairs window and shouted what I hoped was "I'll be right there!" She came downstairs and opened up for me. I ordered cafe con leche and a chocolate croissant. Boy was that tasty!!
She noted my limp and asked if I was ok. I explained that I had injured my knee (thanks to Google translator) and she was very sympathetic. There were photos of her posing with Emilio Estevez and Martin Sheen on the wall behind her. I pointed and asked "The Way?" She smiled and said "Yes!" Apparently, they filmed the part where Martin Sheen dropped his backpack into the water right there in Larrasoana. She said that they came into her cafe for coffee, American, while they were filming the movie.
Then a large group of Japanese pilgrims came into the cafe. There were about six of them with backpacks and pilgrim shells and another six or seven people carrying large film-crew style video cameras, boom microphones, tripods, light reflectors, and battery packs. They spoke to the proprietress in Spanish and before I knew it, they had set up to interview her! They were filming a Japanese documentary about the Camino de Santiago. It was pretty cool! When they finished, they ordered coffee and breakfast items.
After a while, the owner asked me if I was going to catch the bus. I said "BUS??" She said that it stopped at the town square on its way to Pamplona. I quickly thanked her and took off as fast as I could limp towards the square. When I turned the corner, I saw the bus..... leaving. It had dropped off one female pilgrim and took off before I could get there. The pilgrim saw me and introduced herself as Helen from Canada. She said she had injured her knee (seriously?) and caught the bus in Roncesvalles so she could rest one day in Larrasoana. We laughed at the coincidence, but then realized that knee injuries are very common on this part of the Camino. She then asked where she could get some coffee. I pointed her to the cafe, but decided not to go again because my knee was really hurting.
Istvan pulled into the square soon after 11:00 and I was so happy to see him I almost teared up. He helped me into his car, loaded my gear, and we took off for Pamplona. When he picked up my pack to load it he said "Here's your problem, this pack is too heavy." As we arrived in Pamplona, we couldn't drive to the hotel because they had the downtown streets blocked for a festival. So Istvan parked about a kilometer from the hotel and carried my pack for me. He said we needed to make one stop on the way to the hotel. We stopped at a pilgrim supply store where he suggested that I purchase a knee brace, sports cream, and a day pack. That way, he explained, I can send the heavy pack by transfer service along the route. This made perfect sense to me.
At the hotel, Istvan helped me check in, ordered a bucket of ice, and carted my gear to the elevator and then to my room on the fourth floor. He was absolutely my guardian angel!! I was sad to see him leave for home, but so grateful for his help.
After icing and elevating my knee for several hours, I decided to go out to find some dinner. I collapsed one of my hiking poles to make it small enough to use as a cane. As I walked around, I noticed many people heading in the same direction so I followed. The crowd flowed into the Plaza del Castillo where a festival was going on. I literally stumbled onto a group of folk dancers, as my makeshift cane got stuck in the cobblestone and I almost fell. There were folk performers everywhere. I enjoyed a bocaldillo and a beer at an outside cafe while watching the festivities. A perfect end to my day.
Everyone else was leaving, they patted me on the shoulder and wished me luck as they took off for the Camino trail. I was left sitting alone in the town square with my pack and my poles. It was a sad moment.
I decided that if I didn't snap out of it, I was going to cry again. So I got up and, using my poles for support, I set off to find some coffee and breakfast. I limped across the square into the village toward the market. On the way, I saw a sign that read "Casa Elita, Open all year, Cafe American." So I turned and walked to the end of the road where there was a two story building with a cafe on the ground floor. The lights were on, but the door was locked. I thought, boy my bad luck is holding up. Then I read a note taped to the door that read "Para la campana del anillo servicio." I whipped out the Google translator app that I had loaded onto my iPhone and saw "Ring bell for service." So I rang the bell. A woman poked her head out of the upstairs window and shouted what I hoped was "I'll be right there!" She came downstairs and opened up for me. I ordered cafe con leche and a chocolate croissant. Boy was that tasty!!
She noted my limp and asked if I was ok. I explained that I had injured my knee (thanks to Google translator) and she was very sympathetic. There were photos of her posing with Emilio Estevez and Martin Sheen on the wall behind her. I pointed and asked "The Way?" She smiled and said "Yes!" Apparently, they filmed the part where Martin Sheen dropped his backpack into the water right there in Larrasoana. She said that they came into her cafe for coffee, American, while they were filming the movie.
Then a large group of Japanese pilgrims came into the cafe. There were about six of them with backpacks and pilgrim shells and another six or seven people carrying large film-crew style video cameras, boom microphones, tripods, light reflectors, and battery packs. They spoke to the proprietress in Spanish and before I knew it, they had set up to interview her! They were filming a Japanese documentary about the Camino de Santiago. It was pretty cool! When they finished, they ordered coffee and breakfast items.
After a while, the owner asked me if I was going to catch the bus. I said "BUS??" She said that it stopped at the town square on its way to Pamplona. I quickly thanked her and took off as fast as I could limp towards the square. When I turned the corner, I saw the bus..... leaving. It had dropped off one female pilgrim and took off before I could get there. The pilgrim saw me and introduced herself as Helen from Canada. She said she had injured her knee (seriously?) and caught the bus in Roncesvalles so she could rest one day in Larrasoana. We laughed at the coincidence, but then realized that knee injuries are very common on this part of the Camino. She then asked where she could get some coffee. I pointed her to the cafe, but decided not to go again because my knee was really hurting.
Istvan pulled into the square soon after 11:00 and I was so happy to see him I almost teared up. He helped me into his car, loaded my gear, and we took off for Pamplona. When he picked up my pack to load it he said "Here's your problem, this pack is too heavy." As we arrived in Pamplona, we couldn't drive to the hotel because they had the downtown streets blocked for a festival. So Istvan parked about a kilometer from the hotel and carried my pack for me. He said we needed to make one stop on the way to the hotel. We stopped at a pilgrim supply store where he suggested that I purchase a knee brace, sports cream, and a day pack. That way, he explained, I can send the heavy pack by transfer service along the route. This made perfect sense to me.
At the hotel, Istvan helped me check in, ordered a bucket of ice, and carted my gear to the elevator and then to my room on the fourth floor. He was absolutely my guardian angel!! I was sad to see him leave for home, but so grateful for his help.
After icing and elevating my knee for several hours, I decided to go out to find some dinner. I collapsed one of my hiking poles to make it small enough to use as a cane. As I walked around, I noticed many people heading in the same direction so I followed. The crowd flowed into the Plaza del Castillo where a festival was going on. I literally stumbled onto a group of folk dancers, as my makeshift cane got stuck in the cobblestone and I almost fell. There were folk performers everywhere. I enjoyed a bocaldillo and a beer at an outside cafe while watching the festivities. A perfect end to my day.
11 April -- An Evening in Larrasoaña
When I arrived in Larrasoaña, I checked in at the Municipal Albergue for the night. Other pilgrims who saw me struggling and limping were so sweet as they tried to help me. I met John, from San Antonio who offered ibuprofen, and I met a wonderful woman from Denmark who said she was a healer. She asked me if I wanted healing, so I said YES!! She had me lie on a bench while she sat on a chair and cradled my knee in her hands and began holding it and massaging it. I actually felt heat from her hands and the massage felt soothing. Soon everyone was showering, washing clothes, hanging out clothes to dry, and generally getting on with their evening plans for dinner. I sat outside in the warm sun and contemplated my next move.
I finally decided to take a taxi to Pamplona in the morning. So I got online and booked a hotel for two nights. I ate the leftover sandwich from the lunch Barbara packed for me and when I looked around, everyone had left the dormitory.
Wondering what just happened, I limped outside where I could hear voices in the garden of the Albergue. Following the voices, I found the group of pilgrims laughing and talking, some were playing board games, many had purchased bottles of wine from the shop in town and they were sharing wine with everyone. What a joyful experience! Most of this group had just met in SJPDP and had walked together this far. They welcomed me into their group and we talked until the sun began to set. It was getting cold again, so we returned to the dormitory. Again, there was no heat and I was thankful for my silk cocoon and synthetic sleeping bag. Although I was dearly wishing I had not left my silk cuddle duds at home. Another cold night here, but made warmer with the experience of meeting new friends.
I finally decided to take a taxi to Pamplona in the morning. So I got online and booked a hotel for two nights. I ate the leftover sandwich from the lunch Barbara packed for me and when I looked around, everyone had left the dormitory.
Wondering what just happened, I limped outside where I could hear voices in the garden of the Albergue. Following the voices, I found the group of pilgrims laughing and talking, some were playing board games, many had purchased bottles of wine from the shop in town and they were sharing wine with everyone. What a joyful experience! Most of this group had just met in SJPDP and had walked together this far. They welcomed me into their group and we talked until the sun began to set. It was getting cold again, so we returned to the dormitory. Again, there was no heat and I was thankful for my silk cocoon and synthetic sleeping bag. Although I was dearly wishing I had not left my silk cuddle duds at home. Another cold night here, but made warmer with the experience of meeting new friends.
11 April -- Bizkarreta to Larrasoaña
After we returned late last night from the Pilgrim's Mass in Roncesvalles, Istvan introduced me to Skye, a young woman from Australia. She had just arrived and was eating a late dinner. We introduced ourselves and she recognized me from my posts on the El Camino Pilgrim's Forum. That was cool! She will be starting from SJPDP in the morning. We exchanged phone numbers in case she wanted to share a taxi at some point. I figured she'd probably catch up to me along the way.
I awoke before daylight and Skye and I shared what passes for breakfast here: hard toast with cheese and jam and a cup of really good coffee. I packed my stuff and got ready to walk to Larrasoaña as Istvan and Skye left for SJPDP. Claudia packed a lunch for me and sent me on my way with a kiss and a prayer. This is a 17 km section, so I figured it would take me about 3.5 hours.
My feet felt GREAT! No problems there. The backpack was heavy, but manageable. The temperature was perfect for walking and it was sunny. I was making good time, averaging 4 km/hr. Somewhere around the 10 km mark, I stopped for a rest and drink. The scenery was spectacular. I heard an engine noise, which surprised me because I was nowhere near a road. A few minutes later, a small 4x4 truck approached and stopped. The driver got out and in Spanish began to ask me questions. At first I could not believe what I was seeing, as the trail is NOT for vehicular traffic. I explained to the gentleman that I could not speak Spanish, but I could actually make out what he was trying to ask me. He was looking for two young men who were dressed in shorts and white shirts. He said they were brothers and one of them had dropped a phone in his cafe this morning. So here was this guy, driving the Camino, trying to return a stranger's phone!!! I told him that I had not seen anyone else on the trail except a few bicyclists who had passed me (another funny story there). I said I'd keep my eye open for them, but I think I understood more Spanish than he did of English. So he shrugged, got back in his truck and had to turn around because the trail had gotten too narrow for his truck to go any further. I took off walking again. Not 5 minutes later, here were two young guys in shorts and white shirts, walking towards me. I haven't met very many English speaking pilgrims on the trail, so I assumed they didn't speak English. I made the universal sign for a phone and asked "Phone?" They answered "Sorry, we just lost ours!" in English. So I told them to hurry up and try to catch the guy in the truck. They took off running to catch him.
So, I'm rocking along making good time, feeling great, and so thrilled to be walking between villages in Spain! It's like a dream come true. Then I got to Zubiri. I was climbing down a LONG set of stairs on the side of a hill, when I heard and felt my knee pop and then it started to swell, and then the pain came. I went from walking at 4.5 km to 1km. I walked 15 km in a little over 2.5 hours, then it took me another 2 hrs to get the last 2 km to the hostel. I'm not sure what I'm going to do right now. I sat down and had a good cry, now just waiting to see how it will be in the morning.
Saturday, April 12, 2014
10 April -- Roncesvalles to Bizkarreta
Istvan picked me up at the train station in Pamplona as promised. I was in for a treat because he had to wait in town for another pilgrim that was scheduled to arrive later in the afternoon, so he gave me a personal tour of Pamplona. It was great, I was also able to find an ATM and mail the rolling duffel bag with my extra clothes to the Santiago Pilgrim Forum office.
I saw the bullring and Papa Hemingway's statue. We had cafe con leche at the station while waiting. The other pilgrim was a young Hungarian. He was planning to leave from Saint Jean Pied de Port so Istvan proposed that I ride with them to SJPDP in France and he would then drop me off in Roncesvalles where I would begin my walk. This was a great idea! I got to see the French Gate at SJPDP and walk through the town with the other pilgrims from all over the world. It was quite exciting.
Istvan also suggested that I leave my back pack at his place and walk with a light daypack. Another brilliant idea! That way, Istvan got another paid night from me during this slow season and I was able to walk quite easily with a light pack. This was a "win-win" for both of us. I walked the 12km from Roncesvalles to Bizkaretta and Istvan's pension. Here is the link to Istvan and Barbara's place: Corazon Puro Pension. After I showered, hand washed my clothes and hung them out to dry in the sun, I took a nap. When I awoke, Barbara (Istvan's wife) informed me that a road crew had cut the water main and we had no water. Good thing I had already showered! We had dinner and then Istvan drove me back to Roncesvalles for the Pilgrim Mass and Blessing. That was pretty cool!! At the Pilgrim's office, they will ask your nationality when you check in. Then after the mass, the priest gives the Pilgrim's blessing in every language represented.
Ok, tired now, must get to bed. Early start in the morning.
I saw the bullring and Papa Hemingway's statue. We had cafe con leche at the station while waiting. The other pilgrim was a young Hungarian. He was planning to leave from Saint Jean Pied de Port so Istvan proposed that I ride with them to SJPDP in France and he would then drop me off in Roncesvalles where I would begin my walk. This was a great idea! I got to see the French Gate at SJPDP and walk through the town with the other pilgrims from all over the world. It was quite exciting.
Istvan also suggested that I leave my back pack at his place and walk with a light daypack. Another brilliant idea! That way, Istvan got another paid night from me during this slow season and I was able to walk quite easily with a light pack. This was a "win-win" for both of us. I walked the 12km from Roncesvalles to Bizkaretta and Istvan's pension. Here is the link to Istvan and Barbara's place: Corazon Puro Pension. After I showered, hand washed my clothes and hung them out to dry in the sun, I took a nap. When I awoke, Barbara (Istvan's wife) informed me that a road crew had cut the water main and we had no water. Good thing I had already showered! We had dinner and then Istvan drove me back to Roncesvalles for the Pilgrim Mass and Blessing. That was pretty cool!! At the Pilgrim's office, they will ask your nationality when you check in. Then after the mass, the priest gives the Pilgrim's blessing in every language represented.
Ok, tired now, must get to bed. Early start in the morning.
9 April -- Train Ride
So, the train ride...
Left Madrid via train. I was surprised that the landscape reminded me so much of West Texas. Brown dirt, rolling hills, scrubby trees. We traveled at high speed through this dry, mostly unpopulated landscape where many buildings were made of stone, similar to the barns and farmhouses we saw while in Ireland.
As we traveled norht, the landscape appeared more fertile. Fields with irrigation systems and small orchards were visible. I could see a mountain range with at least one snowy peak in the distance. The few small villages we passed each had a stone church with a steeple. Continuing towards Pamplona, the fields became greener, the trees taller and we passed many vineyards. We passed what seemed like miles and miles of wind farms and solar panel arrays. Just outside of Pamplona, we traveled alongside cultured fields of yellow flowers. Bee colonies were often nearby. Large houses on the hillsides were visible. The flowers were tall, thin reeds with tiny bright yellow flowers. Rolling green hills and flowering fields created a picturesque scene.
Most of the landscape between Madrid and Pamplona was unremarkable. It was only nearer to Pamplona that the scenery became interesting. Especially the fields of yellow flowers. I think they must be some kind of agricultural rather than landscaping crops.
We eventually passed under a huge, high series of archways, similar to the aqueducts in Rome. I'll have to try to find out what they were.
Everyone on the train spoke Spanish, very few passengers were speaking other languages. I could identify German and French. No one else in my railcar spoke English. The ladies in the snack bar could not speak English ether. I ordered my food by pointing at the photo of a sandwich and then ordered Coca Cola, which is apparently universally understood. I paid by putting money in my open palm and allowing them to take what they needed.
I met one other pilgrim in the train station, identified by the Camino Pilgrim's shell on her pack, waiting with me for the train to Pamplona. She couldn't speak English, but we figured out how to tell each other where we planned to start. She was on her way to SJPDP. I told her I was heading for Roncesvalles. We smiled. We were in different rail cars, so we wished each other "Buen Camino" when we parted. My first one!
Left Madrid via train. I was surprised that the landscape reminded me so much of West Texas. Brown dirt, rolling hills, scrubby trees. We traveled at high speed through this dry, mostly unpopulated landscape where many buildings were made of stone, similar to the barns and farmhouses we saw while in Ireland.
As we traveled norht, the landscape appeared more fertile. Fields with irrigation systems and small orchards were visible. I could see a mountain range with at least one snowy peak in the distance. The few small villages we passed each had a stone church with a steeple. Continuing towards Pamplona, the fields became greener, the trees taller and we passed many vineyards. We passed what seemed like miles and miles of wind farms and solar panel arrays. Just outside of Pamplona, we traveled alongside cultured fields of yellow flowers. Bee colonies were often nearby. Large houses on the hillsides were visible. The flowers were tall, thin reeds with tiny bright yellow flowers. Rolling green hills and flowering fields created a picturesque scene.
Most of the landscape between Madrid and Pamplona was unremarkable. It was only nearer to Pamplona that the scenery became interesting. Especially the fields of yellow flowers. I think they must be some kind of agricultural rather than landscaping crops.
We eventually passed under a huge, high series of archways, similar to the aqueducts in Rome. I'll have to try to find out what they were.
Everyone on the train spoke Spanish, very few passengers were speaking other languages. I could identify German and French. No one else in my railcar spoke English. The ladies in the snack bar could not speak English ether. I ordered my food by pointing at the photo of a sandwich and then ordered Coca Cola, which is apparently universally understood. I paid by putting money in my open palm and allowing them to take what they needed.
I met one other pilgrim in the train station, identified by the Camino Pilgrim's shell on her pack, waiting with me for the train to Pamplona. She couldn't speak English, but we figured out how to tell each other where we planned to start. She was on her way to SJPDP. I told her I was heading for Roncesvalles. We smiled. We were in different rail cars, so we wished each other "Buen Camino" when we parted. My first one!
Wednesday, April 9, 2014
Madrid Train Station
Sitting at the train station in Madrid. Had trouble getting tickets online, so opted to purchase at the station. Big mistake. Ticket cost was double. Next time, I'll get help with the web. Hotel Tach was nice for the price. They had a free airport shuttle and VERY comfortable bed with breakfast included. Taxi to train depot was more than I hoped but I didn't want to try to figure out the metro. Definitely getting a tutorial on the metro soon. Blogging from iPhone so sentences are short and sweet. Was able to get SIM card installed at a shop at the train depot. Need to find an ATM soon to replenish my supply.
Still incredibly excited!
Still incredibly excited!
Tuesday, April 8, 2014
Next stop - Madrid
Made it to Frankfurt. Thanks to Frank's United Platinum Status, I'm resting in the Star Alliance Senator's lounge. Interesting how the "other half" lives. Complimentary food, wine, coffee, espresso, beer, recliners, wifi.... Nice. If I weren't dead on my feet, I'd really be enjoying this. I'm afraid I'll miss my flight if I take a "nap" so I'm staying awake. I'm sure I'll sleep on the next flight. The weather is great here, clear and sunny. Sunrise was at 1:00am by my watch. I'd better go get a cup of that coffee or maybe an espresso to keep me awake. Ciao!
Monday, April 7, 2014
First Leg
We got to the airport WAY WAY too early. The good thing is: no line at security. The bad thing: I had to kiss Frank goodbye because he couldn't pass the security gate to wait with me. There weren't any restaurants outside of the security check point, so there was nothing to do but say goodbye and leave. Honestly, I think it was harder on him to see me leave than it was on me leaving.
The terminal is EMPTY, it's kind of eerie how empty it is. I guess when you get here 3+ hours before boarding, you get the place to yourself. First leg is to Frankfurt and I have a long layover there. I hoped to be able to use the United Airlines lounge, but I forgot my pass so it's doubtful.
The weather here in Houston is sunny today. Wouldn't you know it? It's been cloudy, foggy, rainy, and pretty much miserable until today. I've been keeping track of the weather on the Camino route. It is cloudy, foggy, rainy, and pretty much miserable right now. My luck. Perhaps I can bring some sunny days with me.
I guess I'll grab some lunch and sit back with a book for a while. I'll check in again from Frankfurt.
The terminal is EMPTY, it's kind of eerie how empty it is. I guess when you get here 3+ hours before boarding, you get the place to yourself. First leg is to Frankfurt and I have a long layover there. I hoped to be able to use the United Airlines lounge, but I forgot my pass so it's doubtful.
The weather here in Houston is sunny today. Wouldn't you know it? It's been cloudy, foggy, rainy, and pretty much miserable until today. I've been keeping track of the weather on the Camino route. It is cloudy, foggy, rainy, and pretty much miserable right now. My luck. Perhaps I can bring some sunny days with me.
I guess I'll grab some lunch and sit back with a book for a while. I'll check in again from Frankfurt.
Sunday, April 6, 2014
Backing Up A Little...
OK, so I guess I haven't really explained what I'm up to lately. Well, almost 30 years ago I read the book "The Pilgrimage" by Paulo Coelho. The Pilgrimage Plus-Paulo Coelho
It is the story of a man who walks the El Camino de Santiago from France to Spain. The tale inspired me to someday walk the Camino myself. Then, about 3 years ago, I saw the movie, The Way and it reminded me that I had once decided that I would walk the Camino before I was 50. So, life got in the way and I didn't get to it before I was 50. I told myself I would do it when I was 55. Time's up!
I've been planning this for almost a year now. I've researched, read guides, talked to other pilgrims, trained and now I'm ready. I think. Ready or not, I leave for Madrid tomorrow. I will take a train to Pamplona and then a bus to Roncesvalles where I will begin my pilgrimage. 30 days of walking, averaging 25 km per day should get me to Santiago just in time to meet Frank in Lisbon on May 13. That's right, Frank will not be walking with me. Going solo will be a little nerve wracking until I get the hang of it. I downloaded a Spanish-English Google translator to help, but I understand that there are MANY people on the pilgrimage who speak English.
Wish me luck, say a prayer for me, keep in touch!
I will be meditating and praying for all of you!
Love to all,
Ronnie
It is the story of a man who walks the El Camino de Santiago from France to Spain. The tale inspired me to someday walk the Camino myself. Then, about 3 years ago, I saw the movie, The Way and it reminded me that I had once decided that I would walk the Camino before I was 50. So, life got in the way and I didn't get to it before I was 50. I told myself I would do it when I was 55. Time's up!
I've been planning this for almost a year now. I've researched, read guides, talked to other pilgrims, trained and now I'm ready. I think. Ready or not, I leave for Madrid tomorrow. I will take a train to Pamplona and then a bus to Roncesvalles where I will begin my pilgrimage. 30 days of walking, averaging 25 km per day should get me to Santiago just in time to meet Frank in Lisbon on May 13. That's right, Frank will not be walking with me. Going solo will be a little nerve wracking until I get the hang of it. I downloaded a Spanish-English Google translator to help, but I understand that there are MANY people on the pilgrimage who speak English.
Wish me luck, say a prayer for me, keep in touch!
I will be meditating and praying for all of you!
Love to all,
Ronnie
Saturday, April 5, 2014
Sigh.
The past few days have been quite unsettling. I have researched the El Camino de Santiago forums for months, I purchased a "Camino Preparation Guide" and even spoke with a local woman who did the Camino last year. I ordered and purchased the items listed in the guide, I made sure I purchased extremely lightweight but durable products, and I've gone over and over the list. But my backpack is TOO HEAVY!! I culled many items from the list, even things that the forums and published guides recommended as "essential." But the final recommendation is that the pack should not weigh more than 10% of the person's total body weight. My pack is over this limit. I give up. I can't leave anything else out. If it gets so bad that I can't handle the weight, I'll just hire a portage service to take my pack from one town to the next.
One pilgrim on the forum told me this: "The people who get injured are usually the young ones. They try to carry too much weight and they try to walk too far, too fast in one day. The older pilgrims usually do well. They walk short distances very slowly. They pack very few things and they carry lots of money." Well, I guess I'm an "older" pilgrim. I'll walk slowly anyway!
Two days to Madrid!!
Wednesday, April 2, 2014
Late Night Anxiety
Well, David laughed at my photo and said that I looked like a hobbit in the hiking skirt. Or did he say troll? I refuse to remember. I am obsessing over my backpack and supplies. I want my pack to be as light as possible, but I need to pack for colder weather than I anticipated. I have a warm down sleeping bag good to -20 degrees, but it's HEAVY! My synthetic light bag is good to +55 degrees, but will I be too cold? Layers of smart wool or fleece jacket? What about my meds??? I guess I'll go to bed now and start obsessing again tomorrow.
Tuesday, April 1, 2014
I guess I'm not a blogger.
LOL. I see that my blogging did not go as planned. I completed the road trip: North Padre, TX - Dallas, TX - Branson, MO - Nashville, TN - Raleigh, NC - Myrtle Beach, SC - Opelika, AL - Breaux Bridge, LA - North Padre, TX. What a trip! Got caught in an ice storm and stranded in Branson. But, otherwise great trip, just too long in a car.
Well, gotta go! Getting ready for my next trip: Fly from Houston, TX to Frankfurt, Germany to Madrid, Spain. Train to Pamplona, Spain. Taxi to Roncevalles, Spain. Walk from Roncevalles to Sanitago, Spain. (Yes, WALK) Bus to Finisterre, Spain. Train to Lisbon, Portugal. Fly to Santa Cruz de Tenerife, Canary Islands. Fly back to Lisbon, Portugal. Then back home.
.
Well, gotta go! Getting ready for my next trip: Fly from Houston, TX to Frankfurt, Germany to Madrid, Spain. Train to Pamplona, Spain. Taxi to Roncevalles, Spain. Walk from Roncevalles to Sanitago, Spain. (Yes, WALK) Bus to Finisterre, Spain. Train to Lisbon, Portugal. Fly to Santa Cruz de Tenerife, Canary Islands. Fly back to Lisbon, Portugal. Then back home.
.
Monday, February 24, 2014
Testing, one, two, three....
I told David that I would have a blog while I am traveling. Well, I've BEEN traveling and - no blog. So, here's my attempt at blogging for your reading pleasure.
I may post entries and photos from previous trips but I have so many to catch up with that I may never get to them. At least I've started now. Let's see if I can keep it up.
Currently, I am planning a road trip from Padre Island, TX to Raleigh, NC. We will travel to the DFW area first, then onward and upward. I'll keep you posted, I hope!
I may post entries and photos from previous trips but I have so many to catch up with that I may never get to them. At least I've started now. Let's see if I can keep it up.
Currently, I am planning a road trip from Padre Island, TX to Raleigh, NC. We will travel to the DFW area first, then onward and upward. I'll keep you posted, I hope!
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